Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

abflug is definitely nicer. Much better fitment.

PMR33, how low is it sitting to the ground? Would be close to legal/illegal. Would be the only problem.

PSI, price on that one?

It is pretty low to the ground. My car itself is below legal height without the diffuser lol.

  • 3 months later...

No noises what so ever. I made a few additional brackets for it so it doesn't move what so ever. One of the guys here in Townsville got one a few months back for his GTR. He mounted it dodgy as hell (he's pretty dodgy with anything to do with cars though), the whole thing moved side to side and when I saw it for the first time with some mates I said "that thing is going to fly off". Sure enough a few weeks later, it did hahahaha.

But yeah it's fine. Doesn't move what so ever it's on there that tight. Been at plenty of high speeds with it aswell and no problems there. My car is pretty low and it doesn't hit anything at all. I've order the additional carbon vortex generators for the side of it aswell so will install them and post some pics up soon.

If you buy one from PSI Parts, hit them up for the DIY install I wrote up for them. Plenty of photos of everything I did.

Any still in stock PSI?

PM-R33 - how is it going over bumps etc? Does it fit tightly or rattle etc? Do you have any pictures of it close up? Thanks mate.

Hi,

Sorry we have currently sold out.

I will respond to your email in reagrds to shipping times.

Thanks,

Shane

If you can...

Grab an R34 GT-R Rear C/F diffuser or C/F copy for much less eg from JDM Performance here on SAU

Pics?

Get PI Magazine Issue #130 pp38-43 Article called "Mixmaster" Re R33 GT-R (midnight purple)

Brackets can be fabricated by Peter at Bodyform Aero now at Smithfield.

In that PI article Dave, it doesn't say if or how much trouble there was in fitting the R34 GT-R V-Spec rear diffuser to the R33 GT-R.

The article just says, "The exterior is completed with a cutom-fitted later generation R34 V-Spec carbon rear diffuser, a very expensive addition that costs $6000 new from Nissan!"

The one I bought from Eugene at JDM Performance was a whole lot less than half that!

Peter at Bodyform willingly did make up the support brackets + the metal diff bracket for jacking purposes > fitted it exactly to my previous R34 GT-R which was not a V-Spec.

I think the Top Secret one won't match the look of my car. Does anyone sell other designs?

PSI: Thanks for your PM Shane, but I've decided to not go for the TS one - do you have any others?

Any pics of other types?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...