Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just installed my new exhaust manifold. It's a stock one with external gate attached to it. Anyway, 11 studs are very happily installed. The one on the top row second from the rear somehow threaded out the hole it's supposed to go into. So i've installed it gently, but if i put any real pressure on it, it spins freely as i've obviously damaged the threads inside the hole.

If all 11 others are attached securely, am I going to be okay, or is this going to be exhaust leak central?

If it is a problem, how do i fix this?

Thanks,

Isaac

Exhaust leak central

Where is the stripped hole? Go and get a helicoil kit, and repair it. Its piss easy to do. Just make sure you have a practice somewhere if you haven't done it before.

Also, you might even be able to do it where it is without taking the manifold off.

aslong as both the manifold and head are straight and clean then it'll be fine, and given the top row is pretty easy to get to with a standard manifold anyway it cant hurt to see how it goes.

aslong as both the manifold and head are straight and clean then it'll be fine, and given the top row is pretty easy to get to with a standard manifold anyway it cant hurt to see how it goes.

You can't be serious? It's going to leak no matter how flat both surfaces are. Not straight away, but eventually. Then it destroys a gasket, and other studs that cop the heat from it.

Do it once, do it properly. Helicoil as suggested above

so all the hundreds of standard cars driving around with 3-4 studs fallen out with no leaks are miracles? its a thick cast iron manifold, its not gonna bend from 1 missing stud

so all the hundreds of standard cars driving around with 3-4 studs fallen out with no leaks are miracles? its a thick cast iron manifold, its not gonna bend from 1 missing stud

Didn't say the manifold was going to bend. It's going to leak though. And the studs fallen out of hundreds of standard cars is because the gasket is leaking, causing the hot gases to pass over the stud. If he puts this all back together without fixing it while it's close, then it WILL leak, it's only a matter of time....and from what I have seen, no more than about 3 months depending on what he does with the car

Cool

I don't think it's worth "seeing how it goes" because the inconvenience of removing everything again overpowers the "pay some mobile dude $88 to come fix it for me tomorrow)

Words stupidest question, but with the studs, does the "long threaded end" or "short threaded end" go into the head?

As for studs I had one stuck in with loctite from the previous owner haha no wonder the back two cylinders had no exhaust gasket left I pulled the stud out with my fingers

Edited by JE-R33GTS-T

Cool

I don't think it's worth "seeing how it goes" because the inconvenience of removing everything again overpowers the "pay some mobile dude $88 to come fix it for me tomorrow)

Words stupidest question, but with the studs, does the "long threaded end" or "short threaded end" go into the head?

short end goes into the head

You can't be serious? It's going to leak no matter how flat both surfaces are. Not straight away, but eventually. Then it destroys a gasket, and other studs that cop the heat from it.

Do it once, do it properly. Helicoil as suggested above

what? I have 2 broken studs and have never had a leaking problem???

you'll probably find that the cars that have broken a stud over time may or may not have a leak due to being on the car for hundreds of hot/cold cylces were the gasket has bonded slightly to the head and manifold. It's a bit hit and miss, I had 1 broken stud and didnt have any exhaust leaks but others might not be so luc

you'll probably find that the cars that have broken a stud over time may or may not have a leak due to being on the car for hundreds of hot/cold cylces were the gasket has bonded slightly to the head and manifold. It's a bit hit and miss, I had 1 broken stud and didnt have any exhaust leaks but others might not be so lucky.

With a new gasket as said above, this will not work as the gasket will leak pretty quickly

Edited by 89CAL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How f**ked am i? what would happen if i leave the magnet inside there? 
    • I'll update you guys when i get home from work, im going to try to fish it out.  I just realized that i can't even drop the oil pan. The whole front diff and axles are connected to the oil pan... is it even possible to drop the oil pan without taking out the motor?  
    • So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that.   Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.
    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
×
×
  • Create New...