Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Many thanks again Tim & Brian > makes one feel humble.

But when your car Brian, has people sticking their heads and cams out the window :nyaanyaa: , one has to wonder if there's anyone left at home to operate your white 'line - lol

Here's another "eiresgaus-head-out-tha-window-take-tha-risk-o'-decapitation-action-shot" special...

eiresgaus-4.jpg

Many thanks again Tim & Brian > makes one feel humble.

But when your car Brian, has people sticking their heads and cams out the window :nyaanyaa: , one has to wonder if there's anyone left at home to operate your white 'line - lol

Here's another "eiresgaus-head-out-tha-window-take-tha-risk-o'-decapitation-action-shot" special...

eiresgaus-4.jpg

Not to worry, I was home to operate it (most of the time!whistling.gif). All the photo's 'on the move' were by my good ol' passenger, fairly sure for this one I nearly got smacked by the camera while he was trying to get a decent angle! Well worth it though!

what kind of power is god_speeds black r34 making? i was behind it going through the nato park last weekend and seemed to go great

It has HKS cams.

What you noticed Michael is that with "advanced cam timing", there is noticeable low down torque with little loss of top end power.

228awkw on 1.0bar

That thing squirts so strongly from low down.

F-Con V-Pro ECU - still in same state of tune as it was in Japan > hard to find someone to tune it if the car was upgraded.

Terry you coming to the next social cruise on the 19th march?

Thanks for your kind comments Michael. See you there huh? :thumbsup:

Yes - I think both of us will be along.

Matt in his blue Renault Clio Sport > spirited thing

Myself in my silver Forester XT 'n crappy Geolandar tyres (before KU27 replacements)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks Rhys and Matt.

Just got the car back from Unigroup Eng.

Terry.jpg

The above figure was the final rKw one after boost had been rolled back to 1.4bar with 98RON and -7 turbs.

I wanted boost to come on earlier - bottom end power: but only a little top end power was sacrificed due to Yavuz' superb tuning.

Thanks too to Steve-0 for working with Yavuz and getting Poncams and Tomei cam gears to suit. Cams advanced 3-4 degrees.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...