Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there guys, so as the title and description state, iv'e tried to replace my pod filter with a carbon fiber closed pod filter, a Monza one. Along with this i also replaced the intake tube with an aluminium 5 piece adjustable one. I put mini breathers on the two hoses that were connected to main air pipe as well. So everything was connected properly as the guy from Autobarn told me to, i kept the air flow sensor and connected that to the adjustable pipe as well, how it was connected previously, but when i tried to start my car it simply kicked over a few times then died out.

I have tried to trouble shoot the problem but iv'e come up with nothing. Iv'e taken off the carbon filter and put the old one on yet to no avail. Iv'e taken off the mini breathers one by one and yet nothing, so now iv'e restored everything to how it was and I am currently waiting for the super glue to dry... i had to cut off a little pipe outlet thingy to connect a mini breather only to realize that i could take off the hose and connect it to the metal connector inside =.=" stupid, yes i know.

So guys, please if anybody has gone through this at all or if they have any input to help me i'd be greatly appreciative... so please help!!

Car type: 1993 Skyline R33 GTS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352216-need-help-air-filter-disaster/
Share on other sites

some cars i know ie commodores will sometimes not want to start if u put on a pod filter, or they take longer to crank over.

did u take off your AFM/MAF? if u did your car wont start.

put everything back the way it was previous and reset the ecu, see how that goes

The car originally had a Drift cylinder pod filter on it with a makeshift heat shield... the heat shield was scratching the engine bay so thats my reason for wanting to change it. I had the AFM connected when i put everything together and now when I restored everything. How do i reset the ECU though?

"...mini breathers on the two hoses that were connected to main air pipe..."

Aren't the mini breathers supposed to be on the valve cover and the two hoses on the main pipe blocked?  Can you post a photo?  It should be an easy fix if it ran before the change of air filter. 

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey theres guys, sorry for not updating this thread... i sort of forgot haha! Well I did manage to fix this problem, I put everything back together how it was and that worked great so instead of replacing all the pipe work i returned all the parts i bought and bought a K&N cold air intake instead. It is a VERY tight squeeze but hey... it suits the engine bay all nice and black and seems to be working quite well.

All in all I think some advice I can offer to people is to invest in a more expensive product as they work better!! xD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haven’t had the chance to drive it yet with work being a nightmare, will definitely be doing that at some point this week. got these so that grip won’t be an issue at roll racing  
    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...