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No worries Harry, I might wander down to one of the jap wreckers in the next week or so and have a look.

Nick, long shot but possibly call Dick's cv's. Really old guy from mandurah that drives around, visits Bunbury every 2nd tues, he might head your way every now and then and may be able to help

Thanks for the suggestion Corey - I'll give him a call.

Started bending up the fuel lines, only the feed line shown here while the return line coil is on it's way from the guys at garage7.

42614CD5-3A40-4B6F-921C-4316D212E0DE-1086-000001DCF1C48959.jpg

Pump to filter fuel line and pressure sensor, just need to plumb the filter to the bulkhead and from there to the above 1/2" feed line. Baby steps..!

2A98C15D-6F18-4775-8A95-A404E6848396-1086-000001DCD07341C8.jpg

Does anyone have any engine builder recommendations for the Perth area??

  • 2 months later...

It's been a while since I updated this, it's still a way off running but there has been a fair bit happening. It's also in the current issue of Zoom (181) in it's previous guise...and by previous I mean 3 years ago :P

3an vac line to the fpr in teflon braid

3D30E27C-D68E-4BC1-B454-E3A1323F5B5B-2326-000004DD7C33465A_zps7e1c7a76.jpg

Completed all the WG vacuum lines with 4an teflon brain, mostly covered in firesleeve where it runs close to the exhaust.

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DEi turbo beanie

BC39421B-BA67-4FB1-B5B0-8926E8127BAA-5473-0000091F68B0F3C0.jpg

Collecting fittings for the oil lines - that's nomex/kevlar braid, a lot lighter than steel braid

7F5F5CF2-5EB7-42F9-AD56-191BB6F066AA-150-000000046AC4D074.jpg

E6D16976-DB1B-4E18-B212-E97C1E55DA52-586-000001C4C3FEDF73.jpg

New oil cooler, plumbed in with the nomex line and more speedflow

D6640ACD-2971-432C-8ECE-829F901D764A-586-000001C4D9CF9362.jpg

The tee which runs to the accusump and the one way valve. There is also a pressure sensor fitting on the adapter block.

F62C0183-BF15-4F8B-85E7-8CE7C9DE0A05-586-000001C4FEE0372D.jpg

Bulkhead fitting (line runs to the accusump) and cf blanking plate where the heater hoses used to run.

CD09358F-E037-4578-9A14-A5FC0F5DE012-586-000001C531D8DE82.jpg

Running line to the accusump which now lives in the boot (cut to length but the fittings aren't put together here). The ball valve is in easy reach.

6E8C298C-BAD5-45F2-B6C3-849CB7B3502F-586-000001C552CFB1BD.jpg

Bulkhead fitting for the 8an fuel feed line sitting in a cf blank (filling an old hole).

8744075E-AEF6-46A2-8BC0-936802B0779F-4095-000007E9370FF98E.jpg

It's almost rolling again now as well...

Edited by DCIEVE
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Steve.

And some more

Subframe painted up waiting for the ally bushes to be pressed in.

22BC3E66-46EA-4429-A0E9-098D354C51AB-4095-000007E920B20667.jpg

Adjustable (toe & camber) trailing arms

5B39DAC8-39BC-4B9B-A35D-9E66C511B129-2130-00000317CC91754A.jpg

All the front suspension parts have been installed so it's ready to roll once the rear end go's back in.

6BF9B5FF-7E71-4B8E-89D4-86E649CA6A46-4095-000007E99184E344.jpg

CF79AEC1-93C3-4F50-8925-B4F96901BB18-4095-000007E9B5C3E645.jpg

Rebuilt rear drive-shafts - modified so they work with the non hr cusco 2-way.

C35329BA-08FC-4A38-8929-3702106CC0A7-5120-000009ED69B51185.jpg

Any progress on the engine build Nick?

Not as yet, will have to bite the bullet and go with someone soon. Visited one builder recently who pulled out a broken rb30 crank which has me thinking about nitto cranks now..

Nic awesome work mate

This car has a rich history of abuse

Flashback From 2004

I have a few strong burnout photo's from your ownership on the HD somewhere. Not that much has changed!

Edited by DCIEVE

'Outer Control' did the boots etc - very helpful bunch of guys. No luck with replacement parts so we had to rebuild used gear. Fatz helped out with a set of a car he was wrecking.\

Pressed in the subframe bushes, all ready to go back in and get the car rolling again.

93491EA9-2D2B-41C8-BE85-A77524F46F67-655-000000482830DDCF.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

oh, this is *that* car....it has a rich motorsport heritage.

Looks like you've done a great job with it, hope to see it on a track soon

Thanks Duncan, proof will be in the driving. Hopefully soon!

Nice work Nick,

The car is coming along well...

Full credit to you at how neat everything is and the quality of the work, makes me want to pull my finger out and neaten mine up...

mine is nowhere near the standard of this build.

Cheers Andrew!

Christmas was a rare opportunity to get some uninterrupted time in the garage so I was able to get a few things done. Getting some motivation back lately.

Undercar hardlines complete. 1/2" feed and 3/8" return.

7F37869D-4183-4B6A-91D4-4B0F11AD6445-2318-0000014A87A00FA3.jpg

Reassembled the rear end with the adjustable trailing arms and all new bushes etc

907799DB-8321-4974-B82A-D5ECCB1AE4DC-2318-0000014A45A7904A.jpg

With the rear end back in the car it was time to measure up and make a new solid diff mount. The one pictured below was quickly thrown together after the z31parts item failed leaving the car stranded with it's diff on the ground at motorvation a few years back.

4A209883-4E30-4942-8879-FFE477CB5230-4447-00000276DF4AD244.jpg

That mount was pretty rough so a friend helped put together a replacement. Putting it on the mill was probably overkill but it was there and we had holidays to kill :P

AD526424-BF71-448F-BB8B-A4D8D2FD8326-4447-00000276EBB81D65.jpg

Trial fit

BDFF0B97-ABAB-4F21-84CE-6136CBEE6155-4447-00000276FAF62E91.jpg

...and painted

FA43DFA7-E89A-402D-B332-288815D280F0-4447-000002771739AE2E.jpg

I've also made a start on the flare fit-up - hopefully by the end of the weekend the guards will be cut.

Rear

F22FCC02-F4EF-4C75-B495-2915FCF4A570-1316-00000109347554CD.jpg

Front

9B34D80C-B260-4ECD-93F1-9F3442790BF4-1316-000001095FEA4C8B.jpg

The rear is quite a bit bigger than the front in profile

D7F85074-5B4E-469B-84AA-76CC758279BE-1316-0000010971B531EC.jpg

41B4C903-D6FA-4CB2-9945-A1966A5EA67A-1316-00000109B5769107.jpg

07EABDDA-7A9B-4C35-9695-5BD85BA5E200-1316-00000109A41117B6.jpg

Also fitted up the standard rear bumper and garnish I had painted ages ago.

4D011B60-A84B-4E57-81B5-8CB69E8D4B89-1316-000001094A7C975C.jpg

Tentative new home for the accusump - will need a cover in this location but shouldn't be too hard to knock up.

21EFEE14-7A6C-421D-8AF3-DF6D15699A16-1316-0000010926A56A9F.jpg

Flares look amazing. It's a shame you cant run some wide Wats on her due to the brakes.

What is the smallest wheel size you can run and still clear the front brakes?

Ditch the rest of the kit and go R31 House lips?

Edited by masTers

First preference was 1 piece 17's (or 18's depending on brake clearance i.e. rpf1's) given they're about as light as you can buy but they don't come wide enough, or with low enough offsets for the rear. Which leaves me looking for something 3pce and 18" with custom widths/offsets... bbs e88 are on the wish list but well outside budget so some 3 pce Works might be the way to go.

As mentioned earlier, trying not to waste time on things that don't get it running or aren't going to improve reliability or performance so the kit stays :)

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    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
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