Jump to content
SAU Community

Hr31 Coupe Rb26 (For Now)


DCIEVE

Recommended Posts

More bit's and pieces

The wiring is moving along, I should have a complete engine loom in the coming days and the body loom is pretty close as well. The firewall has been hole sawed for the engine and body loom bulkheads.

th_null_zps6ab64617.jpg

th_null_zpsfc9aec8d.jpg

th_null_zps2b13ae6d.jpg

I originally installed a flexible tow hook but soon realised there's a sizeable gap between the reo and f/glass bumper which wasn't going to work too well. In go's a rigid hook.

th_null_zps8e72c1e1.jpg

Most of the hot side area has been covered in dei reflectagold. This is mainly because the manifold and wastegate pipes sit really close to the strut tower, and the cabin side firewall insulation has been removed. I had no idea how time consuming this was going to be....!

th_null_zps6fe26b3d.jpg

And a new, new head has been re-built. This has been a massive set back to the engine build but I'll give the seller a few more days to do the right thing before I go into more detail. Basically the engine is ready for trial assembly.

th_null_zps0cb9a677.jpg

th_null_zpsd028b6e4.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I do believe one of your fabircators has done some more work????

Interesting to see that the WG pipes were done over a year ago, seems like yesterday ;)

Missed this one - see the post immediately above yours :)

Great work as usual Nick, nice choice with Owen too, him and his family do alot of great work, and are always prepared to go an extra step to get it done right.

Yeh they're a good group of guys.

The door trims and rear firewall came back from flocking and have been bolted down. Came up pretty well.

null_zpsa2b84aaf.jpg

With the rear firewall done the cage could go back in with new gr8.8 hardware and steel backing plates.

null_zpscdfdd733.jpg

I picked up a low temp thermostat on the engine builders recommendation but I've since been told by a few people the engine will run a lot cooler on e85 so a standard thermostat is a better option. Any thoughts?

null_zps1459c3f1.jpg

Also made a start on oil feed/drain lines since I still have Brad's spare 26/30. FullRace recommend a tiny 3an feed line!

null_zps4f34ca70.jpg

While I was at it I took a few minutes to trial fit the EGT sensors. Ended up being lucky I did as no.1 interferes with a lug on the side of the head - will have to grind it down on the new engine.

null_zpsf3fe3d29.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did he also recommend a big -12an oil return mate?

I got a borg warner s400sx to fit to my car and I'm curious what oil lines to run for it too. Some people say -3an and others -4an, but most have said a -12an return.

Curious to know what you have been told?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also when we switched to methanol we had to use a standard thermostat as the engine ran a lot cooler then on petrol and with the nismo thermostat we couldn't get the engine to stay on temp. I suspect it will be a similar situation with e85.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nick is there any theory behind such a tiny feed line?

I think it's to avoid having to use a restrictor.

Did he also recommend a big -12an oil return mate?

I got a borg warner s400sx to fit to my car and I'm curious what oil lines to run for it too. Some people say -3an and others -4an, but most have said a -12an return.

Curious to know what you have been told?

The advice I had from Geoff at FullRace was to use a 3an feed and 10an drain - he mentioned if you use a 4an feed a restrictor might be required. I already have a 12an adapter for the block so I'm going to stick with that size - can't do any harm I s'pose! S400sx is a big turbo!!

Also when we switched to methanol we had to use a standard thermostat as the engine ran a lot cooler then on petrol and with the nismo thermostat we couldn't get the engine to stay on temp. I suspect it will be a similar situation with e85.

Thanks for the advice - I was worried that might be the case. A colleague has an evo track car running on e85 and he said a similar thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Again, intense.

Thanks mate!

Nick, are you sticking with the sump that Tom made you, or are did the dry sump kit come with a replacement one?

The rb26 sump drilling doesn't suit the rb30 bottom end without an adaptor so I had to sell Toms sump :( The external pump kit came with a sump though, it's quite a nice design with external pick-up and plenty of capacity either side of the trapdoors which should help prevent starvation. Coincidentally I had a chat to Tom today about doing the alignment and suspension set-up!

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

The new engine is 95% complete :yes:

00E4F1B1-8704-497E-9DF2-2C2BF24A51B8-230

Made up a drain that clears the manifold so I don't cook the braided line.

07CFE7AF-358A-4316-A215-8FEB507EAF59-547

Sadly I'm STILL waiting for Brad / Risking / ProFab to cough up a refund for the stuffed cylinder head I was sold. :verymad: This has been a 2+ year saga.

Edited by DCIEVE
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Looking good bud! Slowly getting there with the engine build. Hopefully old mate gets that refund happening!

Is there any sort of pre filter before that external oil pump? Like a screen on the inside of the weld on fitting in the sump?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good bud! Slowly getting there with the engine build. Hopefully old mate gets that refund happening!

Is there any sort of pre filter before that external oil pump? Like a screen on the inside of the weld on fitting in the sump?

That's a damn good question - I lost an (expensive) engine when the shop removed the screen from the filter, and a cam baffle bolt came loose and made it's way into the pump intake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



sweet R31 man.

Thanks!


Looking good bud! Slowly getting there with the engine build. Hopefully old mate gets that refund happening!

Is there any sort of pre filter before that external oil pump? Like a screen on the inside of the weld on fitting in the sump?

Cheers Michael. There is a trash screen on the pick-up but I've been wondering if I should add a coarse inline filter, say 120micron, pre-pump. What do you guys use on your dry sumped race engine?


That's a damn good question - I lost an (expensive) engine when the shop removed the screen from the filter, and a cam baffle bolt came loose and made it's way into the pump intake.

This sort of stuff makes me very nervous! Hopefully all bases are covered with the trash screen and other oiling safety measures (accusump, warning lights etc).

The build is getting towards the pointy end now. Dash is back in, harness eye bolts installed and bled the brakes. Also did a trial fit of all the exh & wastegate piping on the dummy motor to check clearances..

null_zps7984c072.jpg

After seeing the above Geoff from FullRace recommended moving to newer MVR wastegates as apparently they handle the temps a bit better even without utilising the water cooling.

0A78F73B-ED24-46EB-B9E1-E0238B8C0125-840

Engine build wrapped up last week and by Saturday I had this sitting in the garage :)

21A8E8E9-3305-41A0-ABAC-0AA5A140CA0E-711

With info from Michael (r33_racer) the inlet side water lines have been re-run in 120 series hose. Can also see the rb25 knock sensors here and just out of view the OS GIKEN quad plate.

77908917-C54A-4B75-B5A5-D0BE51D22D49-711

Motor and box going in together - surprisingly easy despite doing it solo

3759D9B2-FD9B-44DA-AB6E-385573FC268D-711

Pretty pleased with how it's come together. All that's left now is bolting on the rest of the ancillaries and wiring. Then wheel alignment before towing it up to the engine builder for first start and run in.

2B3F58EC-652D-49A1-BF17-B8AE6F5DFDDA-711

E2D1015E-BCF0-4724-839D-D77EC3D109F4-711

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

We run Peterson scavenge filters. But any coarse inline filter will do the job of protecting any large objects from going through your pump.

Does your oil pump have a gerotor gear design or spur gears? If its spur gears its not as critical and if your trash screen inside the sump was good enough then you could just leave that. Unfortunately gerotor design is not so forgiving...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

We run Peterson scavenge filters. But any coarse inline filter will do the job of protecting any large objects from going through your pump.

Does your oil pump have a gerotor gear design or spur gears? If its spur gears its not as critical and if your trash screen inside the sump was good enough then you could just leave that. Unfortunately gerotor design is not so forgiving...

Hmm it is a gerotor so I might have to look into a scavenge filter. Thanks for the tip :thumbsup:

That looks sensational mate! Great work.

Sorry I missed it but is that an EFR turbo set-up?

Thanks mate. It's an s300sx 88-75, the EFR's were having some issues back when I made the purchase.

Excellent progress matie, must be super stoked to see the motor back in place :)

Definitely nice to clear some space in the house/garage!!

Long time without updates but the car is basically complete and has been for a few months while I wait for a wiring loom. Anyway a few images to bring this up to date.

Reassembling the jigsaw puzzle... definitely lose some of the simplicity you gain going high mount single when adding dual wastegates.

enginebay_05_zpsf610d5f7.jpg

View from the underside

enginebay_07_zps7161bea9.jpg

With almost everything installed minus some fluids it went into http://www.racingdynamics.com.au/ to be aligned and corner weighted. Ended up being 1230kg dry. Being able to adjust camber is a rather nice addition! Tom also made a cover for the accusump and remounted the battery.

null_zps766ad93a.jpg

Due to an oversight on my behalf the ross harmonic balancer came with a htd drive whereas I already had gilmer drive on the oil pump. It was also set-up previously to run at 70% engine speed whereas I'm under the impression 50% is more typical. This was sorted by Evan at Garage7 with a new 38 tooth drive pulley.

null_zpsa2d54886.jpg

I stumbled on these quik-latch fasteners after trying out a couple of other options for securing the front bumper. A really elegant/simple alternative to dzus.

null_zps5c2ea675.jpg

002D768E-636F-4590-A7EC-319302D6B260_zps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello,new to the group, I bought a R32 from auction recently, wondering if anyone knows the cars history, seems to have the usual go fast bits on it, plan is to do an engine swap- add 2 extra cylinders and 1 extra turbo. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/i4rjmlzubjbwjtguh6f4s/IMG20241011140744.jpg?rlkey=q0lumm251377vknbqktfwrycq&st=7scvwx4e&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ro24qmwzlczzlfsr4y05x/Screenshot_2024-10-10-10-49-23-90_9a2f5bb2149dae94cd1e190effc09b33.jpg?rlkey=oyguh26ttshlf04ccp48odf4v&st=xloae97b&dl=0   New to forums and posting pics, if links don't work, take it easy on me, 42yrs old and I tune carburettors!!  
    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
×
×
  • Create New...