Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just FYI.... the first Texi in Sydney is June 12, and it's only $30 if it's your first time with us.

It's not *too* much of a shitful drive from here as Quakers Hill is just off the M7.

should be fine, how much power do you have?

Smoke-worthy power?

Im not sure, would be 140kw at the rears (ish) and about 390nM torque.

Enough for a 400m speed of 189km/h

Might bring a few sets of spares to see what gives good grip.

Hopefully I will have Pinky back on the road for the April local Motorkhana.. If all goes well, got my side indicators half installed, new mirrors on, will have my front indicators soon then get the front bar fitted and sprayed and all ready to go!

more details on the cressie kthx

Bought it as a finished project, built for daily duties and long cruises. Came with a trailer load of spares, literally.

When its washed up a bit I'll get some pics and maybe a mini-build/ fix it diary thread.

Currently waiting on the USA for cool-flex radiator hose couplers. (1.3/8" rubber joiners for the custom rad hoses)

So its not running.... missed very much too. The Holden Cruze/Ignis just doesnt do it for me :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...