Quicker Steering For Skylines?

[blk94r33]

Now we're cooking

Lol.

1 turn lock-to-lock?

[BLITZ-26]

i have a GTR rack in my GTST and compared to my other GTST it feels more responsive and lighter to steer i think, or it feels that way to me is there a difference between the GTR rack and GTST?

Also when i ajusted my Castor rods to about +7 degrees it made the car a lot more responsive and faster to steer with so mabe you could try getting a wheel aligment shop to try that?

[PM-R33]

Yeah castor definetely helps, I have mine set to maximum with the Whiteline bushes.

Not sure if the GTR one is any different?

A good example is watching JGTC interior video clips when they race. They barely ever go more than a 90 degree turn of the steering wheel.

[Touge Kyousou]

Also keen to know this, the r33 ratio is pretty slouchy imho.

I had a v35 (basically a 350z lol) before the 33 and the ratio was much much better although strangely enough, i have better response in the r33 lol.

Will be keeping an eye out for info on this topic.

[PM-R33]

Well there you have it. Some one manufacture/source out an easy swap over steering ratio for Skylines and they will sell like hotcakes!

[BLITZ-26]

it could just be me but it dose feel better then the GTST one, what degree did you get out of the whitline bushes?

[PM-R33]

Wait up i'll go try and find the printout.

EDIT: Ok I think this was the last one I had done.

Castor I have set at +7.45 left and +7.14 right.

Front camber I have -1.52 left and -049 right.

Toe on front I have +0.04 left and right. So should I pull this in a bit?

Toe on rear I have -0.04 left and right.

Rear camber I have -1.37 left and -1.32 right.

[BLITZ-26]

pulling the toe in will increase turn in and response but wear out tyres faster

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

toe in, + castor, camber, replace bushes and a 330ml steering wheel does a fair bit.... how much further do yo wanna go?

[robbo_rb180]

what about modifying the knuckle where the tie rod bolts on.

maybe use an extended rack arms with longer tie rods and move the tie rod mount lower?

has something to do with ackerman angle????

have a read

http://www.nissansil...howtopic=360823

http://shop.engineer...ring-suspension

i know this is all for s1x chasis but might be worth a read

maybe email nigel petrie about modifying a set for an r33

http://engineeredtoslide.com/contact/

you want lock like this ?

Edited February 1, 2011 by robbo_rb180

[PM-R33]

Well I might try playing with the front toe and getting the right camber the same as the left (no idea why there was such a variance) and putting new bushes into the steering rack and see what that does.

I would love a smaller steering wheel but I want the factory airbag. I have looked into a few options and I will have to sort something out with it one day.

Thanks for the link Rob! Will do some reading, seems very interesting.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

i run a 330ml nardi classic phil.... seriously, it's worth the disfigurement

[R31Nismoid]

GTSR's/HR31 had a quick rack.

Much tighter than a R33 IIRC. Doubt it would be retro fitted tho

[Beer Baron]

my advice if you want sharp steering and for the car to feel more 'pointy' you can get most of it with alignment. bushes will give you some castor but adjustable rods will give you a lot more. get some adjustable rods and run as much castor as you can whilst still being able to run 2-3 degrees neg camber. as for toe if you really want it to turn hard and fast you'll need to run some front toe out. keep trying a bit more at a time till you hit the sweet spot. with a decent amount of toe out at the front and a fair bit of caster you'll be amazed at how different it feels.

[PM-R33]

Ok cheers. I'll do some more suspension adjustment and see how it goes

[White GTS-T]

BB is right. If you want good turn in and a more direct feel, run more toe out on the front and more positive castor. If you want less steering input for more steering angle, you need to reduce the ackermann by modify the knuckles

FWIW here's my front end setup.

Camber: -4

Castor: +7

Toe out: 6mm out (total) 3mm each side.

Moddified knuckles. 3 turns from lock to lock.

Offset steering rack spacers.

Ikeya Formula tie rods and tie rod ends.

Cusco castor rods.

Cusco front upper camber arms (5mm shorter)

R33 LCA's with modified lock stops.

Whiteline 22mm S/bar set to soft.

Tein coilovers with dampening towards the softer side.

Pics for reference.

Edited February 2, 2011 by White GTS-T

[75coupe]

what about these as well to help reduce play on the rack...

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/reinforced-steering-gear-mount-bush

[PM-R33]

Any body know much about those?

[_Wing_]

Yeah they're the rack bushings that hold the rack in place, I'll get some of those soon.

With alignment, if your car is track only then anything goes, if your car is street then too much toe/camber/caster absolutely eats tyres in a matter of weeks.

I did check out some steering quickeners, but they're all universal and difficult to install which requires cutting and welding, and cu/shut anything in suspension (or brakes) is a big no-no, and very hard to get engineered (IE be safe).

[Beer Baron]

Any body know much about those?

yeah they are just replacement steering rack bushes. they hold the steering rack to the subframe. no point replacing them unless the current ones are stuffed. I have those nismo ones in my 32. they are stiffer than standard so I guess add some 'directness' to the steering feel. that also means they will transmit more vibration etc but it's not a big deal. won't do anything for how the car turns etc (unless the old bushes were so stuff that the rack was moving).