Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahahah did you note the seller, did you note in post #1 where i said parts are coming from :D

and RB20,25 want high impedance GTR use low impedance and Heslo didn't get back to my txt

and the 80lb Siemens injectors on his webshop are dearer than he quoted us already :D :D

Yea i figured it was the same bloke :D

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Brendan if you only want 500cc i can get the 52lb/h injector there around 535cc

cheers, yeh thats what Im after, However Id say I'll go this way now :

Tangles u can have my 555cc for series 2 rb25 if ya want for good price once I buy my new ones

keen on this offer. PM sent.

thanks guys

Brendan

i spoke with supplier today and he said he was finishing up a price list as i have asked for a few different options this makes the process a little longer

For the 2jz he has found it hard getting info so said he wont be able to do anything for them

If when i get home from villies i dont have an email ill ring him

ok information has come in and there is heaps for me to put together

all i can say is prices are great and i need to ring him just as i know nothing of top hats and wiring harness's so i need to know how people will word their order to know what to give everyone

as it turned out a guy is getting the vulture motorsport plenum and asked that question as i didn't know i told him that, but having never head of them i googled them and looked at the plenum

most of those forward facing plenums are designed to use a top feed fuel rail setup so there not hard to use

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...