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A reputable engine shop shouldnt be using plastigauge as the only means of checking clearences. I won't elaborate on that anymore, I think the reasons why have been covered enough already. It really sounds like the engine was just slapped together with a quick plastigauge check, rather than they assemble and check all the clearances precicely, so that it meets your requirements and will be able to support the power you are after with any degree of longevity.

Check your ring clearences when it is torn down and re-checked. If they arent the same, and correct for every cylinder it will give you a better idea as to what the "build quality" really was. A lot of builders are slack as it takes time to file 24 piston rings precicely.

7 thou end float is the maximum recommended in the service manual. I wouldnt go any more than 8 thou with a thicker oil, otherwise keep it factory spec.

The whole point of running the bigger clearances in the big end of the engine is to allow you to run a heavier grade oil (20w50) to have a thicker oil film, providing better protection for your bottom end bearings. Your bad ass external pump will meet the flow and pressure requirements but you really need to have the right clearances and run the thicker oil to make the most of it. You won't have any issues with oil pressure and the thicker oil provided you limit the use of your right foot until your oil temps are above 75 degrees.

Im extremely picky about waiting till oil temps are up before doing anything with my car.

The engine was actually built for someone else and when he couldnt pay I picked it up for dirt cheap. Im not sure what they used on the to measure everything but it was in my freinds garage when we checked with plastigauge ourselves.

Ive already ordered new pistons for it, polished the mains/rod journals, acid dipped it, and now we are going back and redoing the clearances. Probably should have just done it myself in the first place.

  • 5 months later...

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