Zoid's Gts Build

[zoidbergmerc]

yeah they make cams for neo heads too.

Neo head + Cams + shimless buckets will still be heeeeeeaps cheaper than a 26 head + cams + VCT mods

[jangles]

yeah they make cams for neo heads too.

Neo head + Cams + shimless buckets will still be heeeeeeaps cheaper than a 26 head + cams + VCT mods

I know.

Fair enough then

[zoidbergmerc]

Rrrrrrrrrrace car!

Finally made it to Super Series!!



Shame my day had to end early but I still had the most fun.

Qualified 5th and Finished in 4th in GT B-Grade. (out of 5) Nothing really to brag about yet but I'll get there!

Bashed out a 1.04.3, which I was pretty chuffed with, having never driven a full lap around symmons before.

I need to get serious about getting the right tyres for next time, running KU31s on the back was just plain retarded. They're for Drift or slow cars on the street only! lol

Anyone got any 265\35\18 semis they want to get rid of?

[zoidbergmerc]

So, as some of you may know, TSS2 didn't go to plan, with the head gasket failing on my new engine, kept it to my self a little as I was slightly embarrassed about f**king this new motor after just 2 days...

Anyway,

Got shit pulled down over the weekend with the help of this maaaaaaaaad set of tools I picked up for $999 from Kennedy's Welding Supplies, ($999 RRP, when shit's that cheap you don't need mates rates!) I really only wanted the rattle gun but it was $650 by it's self!

The impact Wrench (rattle gun) is probally the best electric one I've ever used, feels like it's a quality tool in your hand, nice and solid. Ripped my flywheel bolts off no worries, on handed too, a child could use this tool.
The impact driver was a tool I thought was surplus to my needs but I god the 3\8ths square drive attachment for it and it's just really handy for taking off all the little bolts around the joint, and with the impact screwdriver set, it makes short work on the machine screws too, like in the back of the oil pump. I haven't used the drill or angle grinder yet, but they look like good gear!

But enough about my mad tools, engine tear down time.

At Symmons I had a radiator hose come off while racing my 2nd heat, immediately got my boot out of it and limped it back to the pits, filled it back up with water and now water comes out the exhaust, excellent. Dropped the water out and put it back on the trailer and took it home and ripped the motor out.

Here is where all the fun stuff happened.

As you can see, head gasket integrity is low, quite low, but luckily there is no damage to the head or pistons. The conrods seemed to have taken all the punishment. This piston is at TDC too... yep shit's f**ked. So lucky the rod didn't break and f**k my amazing sump. The damage you see on the center of the pistons is from where I tried to measure the distance of the piston from the spark plug hole at TDC to see if I had bent a rod before I got the head off.

This is the only badness that's happened to my head, all the moisture in the top end made it all rusty

The integrity of the all the factory nissan RB25 conrods have indeed been compromised, they're all bent except for one, which is very surprising as water only got into one cylinder! Needless to say they're all junk now, their bendyness seemed to have also caused some uneven wear on their bearings, but the crank is in perfect condition still.

All bent bar #3 (in order left to right)

There was also this mystery gunk caught up in the oil pickup, no idea where is came from, or what it is; it's quite hard to touch but you can with a push, put your finger nail through it.

Mystery chunks.

Opened up the oil filter too and found a few more chunks in it but it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be, looking back on my Racepak dash logs, there is no drop in oil pressure though, so I guess that's lucky! I was unable to take apart the oil pump that was on this motor to see how many chunks it blew because the cheap shitty obviously not rated for impact use screw driver set I was using broke But here are some pics of the N1 Oil pump that was in my old motor.

Back of the N1 oil pump

Back off, revealing the stock N1 gears.

Gears out.

Every RB owners worst nightmare, cracked oil pump gears.

But what's this, a set of not bent conrods!

hello old friends

They say Nitto on them and everything! I wonder where these came from I reckon these should handle 300rwkw! All the bearings in these rods are in pretty good condition too, no egging or taper, only one has a tiny scratch out of it that goes all the way around, I'm thinking that this isn't such a big deal?

I've got a selection of cranks now, I miced them up and luckliy enough the one with the nitto oil pump collar is the one that will give me the most desirable oil clearances. Measured my mains with Dial Bore gauge, which was fun to use as I've not used one before, soooooooo much easier than stupid telescoping gauges!

Going to use the back one.

So that's what I did on the weekend!

Next step is to get the head and block machined so that it'll play nicely with a new MLS headgasket, I'm going to send my injectors away to get cleaned, as I'm thinking they might have had a role in the destruction of this motor... Better safe than sorry... again.

I don't think I'll make time attack, but hopefully I'll be back on track before the season ends. Unless someone wants to gift me some machine shop vouchers, a gasket kit and clean my injectors?

Cheers,

[zoidbergmerc]

forgot to show off my genius lifter oganizing skillz

[Bushy]

You haven't had much luck lately have you, good to see you getting stuck into it!

[jangles]

Did the race pack or ecu give any other data Peter?

[zoidbergmerc]

according to the racepak, it was perfect right up til the moment it wasn't.

Getting a wideband and water pressure sensors before this motor goes back in though.

[XRATED]

... Pete, please don't use the bearings that have come with the rods.

Oh and a tip using the dial bore gauge- don't trust the measurement as displayed. Just write the measurement down, then put the bore gauge into the same micrometer you use to measure the crank, replicate the measurement on the bore gauge and use the figure on the micrometer.

Cheers

Justin

[jangles]

... Pete, please don't use the bearings that have come with the rods.

Oh and a tip using the dial bore gauge- don't trust the measurement as displayed. Just write the measurement down, then put the bore gauge into the same micrometer you use to measure the crank, replicate the measurement on the bore gauge and use the figure on the micrometer.

Cheers

Justin

for the sake of couple of hundred, would be mad to if forged

Edited May 27, 2013 by jangles

[zoidbergmerc]

... Pete, please don't use the bearings that have come with the rods.

Oh and a tip using the dial bore gauge- don't trust the measurement as displayed. Just write the measurement down, then put the bore gauge into the same micrometer you use to measure the crank, replicate the measurement on the bore gauge and use the figure on the micrometer.

Cheers

Justin

If the bearings are within spec and give me the oil clearances I want, why wouldn't I want to use them?

And yes, that is how I was using the dial bore gauge.

[DanielH]

I dont think many people like to reuse bearings, unless its just a shitter/slapper! mind you i have reused healthy main bearings before in cars i have driven hard with no issues, but ive been bitten by being slack with big-ends in the past and now replace them before using any second-hand engine!

I always use ACL Race Series bearings and they are good for the bang-to-buck ratio IMO, they're about $70 a set IIRC.

I must have missed something here cause last i knew you had a forged 25/30 in your skyrine!!?

[XRATED]

Bearings wear the the shape of the journal... if you machine or change the journal, then the wear surface on the bearing will have a high/low point etc. Not to mention the shells pick up impurities, they wear in pairs (so you have to make sure they stay in pairs)... at the end of the day, given the time and money you put into screwing an engine together...?

As stated above, why risk it for the sake of $100?

... if your really going to re-use them, rub the oil surface down with 2000 grit wet and dry and some light mineral oil, prepsol them and run a straight edge across the face (carefully). I've re-used bearings in engines before, but they went back where they came from and I didn't change the surface they were working on.

CHeers

Justin

[zoidbergmerc]

It's back together again

After the car collecting dust for a very long time, I have to move house, moving the car into my new garage spurs on my inspiration which was rekindled after three very good friends let me drive their cars while I tutor them at one of the Advanced driving courses I do. (Subaru RS Liberty, Subaru WRX STi Spec C, Nissan R32 Skyline. All very nice highly modified cars)

So now with my new garage, quadruple the size of the old one with half the shit in it, I get to work, sort out all the bits I have and all the bits I need, watch every single jafromobile video on youtube and promptly get to work.

3 days of measuring, cleaning and spanner swinging later, and the engine is assembled

Next step, get some mates around, and install the engine, then I've got a new fuel system and new brakes to go in also, then I'm good to go!

[Bushy]

Good work Pete! Still keen on TSS?

[zoidbergmerc]

Cheers mate,

Yeah I'm rather keen for TSS again, but my CAMS PCC licence expired, so I have to apply for that again which means another doctors visit, and because I'm not sick, it costs a lot of moneys

[zoidbergmerc]

awwww yeah.

An engine me and my mate built in my garage made 269rwkw, did a drift practice day and lived to tell the tale.



Bring on 2015 season.

[zoidbergmerc]

oooooh so many updates undocumented....