Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just a bit confused

went to go take out the boost restrictor our of my mates r33 gtr to find out the boost solenoid/valve is t there, instead the two hoses are connected to eachother.

is this why he isn't runing 14psi/1 bar ??

hits full boost around 7psi

if anyone can help me source one would be gratefull

cheers

tilla

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352801-r33-gtr-no-boost-solenoid/
Share on other sites

If the 2 solenoid lines were simply capped off and not joined together what boost pressure would the r33 gtr get, and what would be controlling the upper boost level. Thanks

Edited by thatlbeme

No that's not correct. If the STD lines are blocked it will run low boost. The solenoid opens to add a small bleed/vac to the wastegate pressure line. Closing the lines just stops the extra 2psi. You will find the valve state is normally closed. When installing an aftermarket controller new lines and routing is required to control boost over the entire range, rather than just 2psi

it will run 0.9 to 1 bar with the restrictor removed and the standard boost solenoid fitted

well i have had it setup 2 different ways

the old setup:

at the very back corner of the plenum theres a vac line going into it, that was pulled off, extended and then connected to the "actuator" port on my boost solenoid

the nipple that his hose used to go to on the bottom of my plenum was my pressure source

the new setup

B4stll.jpg\

3FPrpl.jpg

2 equal length vac hoses going to the actuators

T'd together at the profec boost solenoid

I drilled into the bottom of the twin turbo pipe, installed a nipple and got my boost source from there

i changed from old setup to the new setup because it wasnt holding boost very well and boost curve was falling over.. 1.2bar down to 1bar, even at 1bar it was quite shakey in terms of boost control, it wasnt solid at all.

Boost control was much better with the stock boost solenoid, it would come up to 1bar and hold it there like a rock, but the only problem with it was that i couldnt go over 1bar

My tune is booked in for monday, im hoping this new setup will hold boost alot better than last time.

Edited by snozzle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good news!!! Changed the O ring today and Iโ€™ve got the โ€œpssshhhhโ€ back when I open the fuel cap ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿผ It was 100% the O ring because that bloody thing was inside the fuel tank ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚ Fitting new fuel pump was a pain as always since the DW is a bit longer than stock. But sheโ€™s running!!! โค๏ธ
    • PWM quite literally just chops the ful 12V voltage on and off at whatever duty cycle you're running it at. If you're running it 100%, then it is on full voltage all the time, same as if there was no PWM. If you run it at 50% duty cycle, it is only seeing the full 12V half of the time. This is broadly equivalent to running it at 6V. But the crucial difference is that motors (and a lot of other loads) don't like being powered at low volts. They will either fail to start rotating, or draw a shit ton of current, or other undesirable things. But if you give them the full volt, and then a short period of no volts, and then some more full volts, then the times when they are seeing power they are seeing all the voltage, and they are happy. But you get the performance out of them as if they were only seeing that fraction of the full voltage. It is not really easy to answer your question about what flow you will get out of it at 50% duty cycle. I can tell you that it is not as simple as you think. For a start, that 460 L/h pump is not going to flow 460 when you're on boost. When you're on boost you will be somewhere down the sloping part of that red line. If you have 15 psi of boost, then the pump can only deliver about 95 gal/h, which is <380L/h. So your simple 50% on 460 = 230 wasn't going to work anyway. But also, it won't deliver 50% of 380 either, because when you devolt or PWM trim th epower being fed to the pump, it is not able to deliver flow or pressure in the same way. 50% duty cycle will probably produce <50% of the full voltage flow. The way to find out what duty cycle you need to run it at at low load (ie, at idle) is to idle it and turn the DC down until you start to lose fuel pressure, then turn it back up above that with some extra for safety. And then you do the same thing at full load, in case it doesn't need anywhere near 100% DC. And if you're careful/caution/prudent, you will also do it at a couple of loads in between so you can shape the DC map against load. It might not be linear between the two end points.
    • Man that dinner was such a long time ago....2010! I would only replace the rubber coolant lines with silicone these days; cheap, readily available and will last for ever. You will need new hose clamps though egย https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-black-nissan-r32-gtr-rb26dett
    • I wouldn't look too hard at what they did with the R32 GTR in endurance racing in Australia... Lots of things weren't actually available from the factory in the way those cars ran them... Japan also followed what Fred Gibson was doing here with some of there endurance cars in Japan... Australia is also the reason for things like the Brembo brakes, and the change in the gearbox... And quite a few other tricks they used to pull. There's a few other SAU peeps still on these forums that will have heard the stories direct from Alan Heaphy, Fred Gibson, and Jim Richards when we were lucky enough to have a great dinner with them
    • For all the talk of "these parts are junk" I generally recommend OEM because it's really not as bad as claimed. I have never seen or heard of a case like the N63 where the oil returns completely clog with coked oil for example in ~10 years or less. Would it be nice if it were a straighter path? I guess, but most modern cars use a scavenge pump instead of a pure gravity return. Also the factory lines that would be relatively simple to convert to braided are generally speaking hardlines from the factory. I would consider braided line to be a regression, not an improvement. It's also been engineered such that all the hardlines have appropriate strain relief where needed. There's absolutely room for improvement, for example the HKS advantage heritage intake piping shows just how much can be done to make the turbos fight each other less in OEM twin turbo configuration and reduce compressor surge but it's rarely a simple/straightforward process. I recommend looking at what the group A/N1 cars did, generally speaking the changes they made were necessary and proven in endurance racing.
ร—
ร—
  • Create New...