Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys :)

I got my non turbo r33 recently (downgraded from gtst for my P plates :() and my mums been complaining about the fuel and that its not much different to the GTST...

After filling in 50$ which iwas 38 L to get to the bottom empty Line it took approx 250kms..

thats only 6.6kms a L, and this is with normal driving, although really occasional accelerations.

ive been hearing numbers like 9kms so i was wondering if it could possibily be an issue with the car?

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352876-rb25de-fuel-consumption/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I got better fuel consumption when my car was converted to turbo with all the factory turbo bits then I did when it was n/a... motor doesn't have the turbo helping it get up to speed/under load etc...

should be 300-400 a tank... do a full tank on 98, not 95 or 91, that will make a difference too...

98 will help it mate. put a filter in it new sparkes and get the o2 sensor changed should help her out a bit with fuel for some strange reason i managed an 174kms a quarter the other day with the a/c on with a 26 highway after i changed to splitfire coilpacks and new plugs :) i was dam happy and now i am getting 140ish round town driving :)

You should be getting at least 500kms a tank when driving (including stop and go, freeway, and flooring)

This.

Out of a complete tank I'd get 520+.

Out of general just filling up, I'd fill up every 480km.

R34 25DE NEO, auto, using BP ultimate

Results are from ECUTalk unit installed in the car.

Freeway/Highway = 9L/100km (best 8.5L/100km, worst 11L/100km)

Mixed (normal day-to-day) = 12L/100km (best 10L/100km, worst 13L/100km)

Heavy traffic = 13.5L/100km (best 12L/100km, worst 16L/100km)

I got better fuel consumption when my car was converted to turbo with all the factory turbo bits then I did when it was n/a...

Ditto, heaps better - halved the revs and just rode the boost torque :P.

I'd be checking/replacing your O2 sensor as a minimum, then get an SAFC and get it tuned to like 13:1 low throttle (<~40%), 12.5:1 heavy throttle and run 98ron (but even tuned to 12 will be huge improvement if your shy). Find a tuner that will do it, I used to run 12.5:1 fuel mixtures on an N/A+T, those on an N/A should handle it fine.

To move an N/A skyline anywhere above walking pace will load up the engine enough to push it out of closed loop, which means 11 down to 10:1 fuel mixtures (I had/have an afr gauge, its disgusting to watch) so a tune will give about 15-20% better city economy. Then there's highway/cruise (when your maintaining speed), with a functioning O2 sensor your mixtures ramble between 14:1 & 15:1 but without it the best you'll see is 12's. With mine unplugged it pretty much just sits in the 10's and 11's, even at idle...

Those things, bit of a $ outlay but totally worth it :P (and you'll pickup smoother delivery and some torque down low and at part throttle).

As for legalities for P Platers, just don’t have it on display...

I found my A/C is sucking some major fuel usage, when it was broken (& hence never used, just windows down + a cigarette lighter powered fan :laugh:) I get over 450km per tank (~13L/100km), but now I have got it fixed (replaced A/C compressor & receiver dryer) I'm struggling to get even 400km per tank.

I lol hard at you guys. My beamer is a 2.5L inline 6 and, with a 60L fuel tank, and i average 600+kms per tank in city driving. Highway driving i average around 850-900kms.

And my car would whoop a non-turbo skyline. In every aspect. End of story.

I lol hard at you guys. My beamer is a 2.5L inline 6 and, with a 60L fuel tank, and i average 600+kms per tank in city driving. Highway driving i average around 850-900kms.

And my car would whoop a non-turbo skyline. In every aspect. End of story.

What happened to the 34/33 GTR Jason??

Gotta say I agree with all the guys here that have got better efficiency after going turbo. I used to get about 300-350kms to a full tank when my car was NA, but now I have the new engine in with 300rwhp and a shocking tune I am still getting 400-450kms a tank. Hitting boost frequently as well... It does struggle with hwy kms though, I get 450 driving around town but only about 350-380 cruising on the freeway. Damn diff ratio :(

I lol hard at you guys. My beamer is a 2.5L inline 6 and, with a 60L fuel tank, and i average 600+kms per tank in city driving. Highway driving i average around 850-900kms.

And my car would whoop a non-turbo skyline. In every aspect. End of story.

I love teh beemers.

Mums got a E39 528i and best I've got out of it on the freeway was 6.2L/100km with AC ON! Has 70L tank, thereotical 1130kms :worship: .

If I ever need a long distance car...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...