Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys :)

I got my non turbo r33 recently (downgraded from gtst for my P plates :() and my mums been complaining about the fuel and that its not much different to the GTST...

After filling in 50$ which iwas 38 L to get to the bottom empty Line it took approx 250kms..

thats only 6.6kms a L, and this is with normal driving, although really occasional accelerations.

ive been hearing numbers like 9kms so i was wondering if it could possibily be an issue with the car?

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352876-rb25de-fuel-consumption/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I got better fuel consumption when my car was converted to turbo with all the factory turbo bits then I did when it was n/a... motor doesn't have the turbo helping it get up to speed/under load etc...

should be 300-400 a tank... do a full tank on 98, not 95 or 91, that will make a difference too...

98 will help it mate. put a filter in it new sparkes and get the o2 sensor changed should help her out a bit with fuel for some strange reason i managed an 174kms a quarter the other day with the a/c on with a 26 highway after i changed to splitfire coilpacks and new plugs :) i was dam happy and now i am getting 140ish round town driving :)

You should be getting at least 500kms a tank when driving (including stop and go, freeway, and flooring)

This.

Out of a complete tank I'd get 520+.

Out of general just filling up, I'd fill up every 480km.

R34 25DE NEO, auto, using BP ultimate

Results are from ECUTalk unit installed in the car.

Freeway/Highway = 9L/100km (best 8.5L/100km, worst 11L/100km)

Mixed (normal day-to-day) = 12L/100km (best 10L/100km, worst 13L/100km)

Heavy traffic = 13.5L/100km (best 12L/100km, worst 16L/100km)

I got better fuel consumption when my car was converted to turbo with all the factory turbo bits then I did when it was n/a...

Ditto, heaps better - halved the revs and just rode the boost torque :P.

I'd be checking/replacing your O2 sensor as a minimum, then get an SAFC and get it tuned to like 13:1 low throttle (<~40%), 12.5:1 heavy throttle and run 98ron (but even tuned to 12 will be huge improvement if your shy). Find a tuner that will do it, I used to run 12.5:1 fuel mixtures on an N/A+T, those on an N/A should handle it fine.

To move an N/A skyline anywhere above walking pace will load up the engine enough to push it out of closed loop, which means 11 down to 10:1 fuel mixtures (I had/have an afr gauge, its disgusting to watch) so a tune will give about 15-20% better city economy. Then there's highway/cruise (when your maintaining speed), with a functioning O2 sensor your mixtures ramble between 14:1 & 15:1 but without it the best you'll see is 12's. With mine unplugged it pretty much just sits in the 10's and 11's, even at idle...

Those things, bit of a $ outlay but totally worth it :P (and you'll pickup smoother delivery and some torque down low and at part throttle).

As for legalities for P Platers, just don’t have it on display...

I found my A/C is sucking some major fuel usage, when it was broken (& hence never used, just windows down + a cigarette lighter powered fan :laugh:) I get over 450km per tank (~13L/100km), but now I have got it fixed (replaced A/C compressor & receiver dryer) I'm struggling to get even 400km per tank.

I lol hard at you guys. My beamer is a 2.5L inline 6 and, with a 60L fuel tank, and i average 600+kms per tank in city driving. Highway driving i average around 850-900kms.

And my car would whoop a non-turbo skyline. In every aspect. End of story.

I lol hard at you guys. My beamer is a 2.5L inline 6 and, with a 60L fuel tank, and i average 600+kms per tank in city driving. Highway driving i average around 850-900kms.

And my car would whoop a non-turbo skyline. In every aspect. End of story.

What happened to the 34/33 GTR Jason??

Gotta say I agree with all the guys here that have got better efficiency after going turbo. I used to get about 300-350kms to a full tank when my car was NA, but now I have the new engine in with 300rwhp and a shocking tune I am still getting 400-450kms a tank. Hitting boost frequently as well... It does struggle with hwy kms though, I get 450 driving around town but only about 350-380 cruising on the freeway. Damn diff ratio :(

I lol hard at you guys. My beamer is a 2.5L inline 6 and, with a 60L fuel tank, and i average 600+kms per tank in city driving. Highway driving i average around 850-900kms.

And my car would whoop a non-turbo skyline. In every aspect. End of story.

I love teh beemers.

Mums got a E39 528i and best I've got out of it on the freeway was 6.2L/100km with AC ON! Has 70L tank, thereotical 1130kms :worship: .

If I ever need a long distance car...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...