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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i only get 380kms now, when i first got it i was getting 450-480, yeah somethings f**ked

My R33 GTS is really bad on fuel, the best i have done is 240km on a full tank,

and the worst was about 110 on a full tank, and the only thing a have

change is exhaust and filter..... thats around town

You two.. change your spark plugs, air filter, and do a full server. Whilst you've got the air intake taken apart, spray wd40 into the trottle body (open the valve and spray in)

If that doesn't help... buy some silicon and cover your coilpacks in it. This helped my misfiring problem.

Run on 98, I fully recommend vpower. I fall in love with my car every time I've switched back to the petrol.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

My R33 GTS is really bad on fuel, the best i have done is 240km on a full tank,

and the worst was about 110 on a full tank, and the only thing a have

change is exhaust and filter..... thats around town

how many Litres are you calling a full tank? you may just have a dodgy fuel gauge, or possibly a fuel leak. also might be worth checking your o2 sensor

You two.. change your spark plugs, air filter, and do a full server. Whilst you've got the air intake taken apart, spray wd40 into the trottle body (open the valve and spray in)

If that doesn't help... buy some silicon and cover your coilpacks in it. This helped my misfiring problem.

Run on 98, I fully recommend vpower. I fall in love with my car every time I've switched back to the petrol.

why not use throttle body/carby cleaner?

r33 auto getting around 450KM on a full tank with mixed driving :) after 220,000kms of mileage and a recent fuel filter replacement (saved about 20-3kms/tank)

as with my reply to my first post, how many Litres are you calling a tank?

i have an auto vt commodore wagon. has 18" wheels and is lowered (both add to fuel consumption. wider tyres = more resistance and heavier rims take more power to turn. lowered = poor alignment of the rear wheels because of the change in camber and toe) and it has over 200,000kms on it, so hardly as fresh as it was. i drive 67.5kms to work everyday. about 55kms of the trip is highway, and there is a 1.2km rather steep hill a few kms from work that takes a reasonable amount of accelerator. i've had the car for just over a month now and the best economy i've gotten was 8.86L/100kms. that;s on e10. on premium i could probably get a bit better, but i doubt it would be worth the extra money it would cost, and after all, it's only a dirty old commodore, so i don't care what i put in it.

R32 (R33 S2 engine) (V-Power)

10.23L/100km - 75L/733km - 27/8/2010 - 139.7c/L

10.16L/100km - 55.34L/544.5km - 4/9/2010 - 141.9c/L

10.82L/100km - 40.58/374.9km - 12/9/2010 - 127.5c/L

10.07L/100km - 88.25L/876.3km - 5/10/2010 - 124.5c/L

9.60L/100km - 72.74L/757.8km - 22/10/2010 - 144.5c/L

9.58L/100km - 54.96L/573.5km - 3/11/2010 - 131.9c/L

8.52L/100km - 53.63L/628.9km - 10/11/2010 - 133.9c/L

10.67L/100km - 53.71L/503.6km - 12/12/2010 - 135.9c/L

10.59L/100km - 56.68L/535.3km - 26/12/2010 - 139.9c/L

9.89L/100km - 54.21L/548.4km - 12/1/2011 - 140.5c/L

10.34L/100km - 52.88L/511.5km - 28/1/2011 - 142.9c/L

9.83L/100km - 69.6L/708.1km - 17/2/2011 - 145.3c/L

10.33L/100km - 54.6L/528.7km - 11/3/2011 - 150.9c/L

This is almost every tank since I've owned the car: (L/100km) BP-98

My driving is mostly to work etc/city, so maybe %75 town,%24 highway, %1 warm up/idling/listening to tunes etc. rolleyes.gif

-10.04

-9.45

-11.94

-11.70

-12.07

I think it was roughly here that I changed my plugs and fitted Yellow-Jackets, above averages to 11.04

-10.21

-11.70

-11.79

-10.92

-14.90

-11.78

-17.70

-8.25

-8.89

-11.90

-11.75

-12.09

-11.38

-10.89

-13.10

And that lot averages 11.81

Now I've changed my O2 sensor, reset the TPS and changed the fuel pump and filter, last two tanks:

-10.18

-13.85

But have definitely noticed a good average improvement compared to before.

8.25 lowest, 17.70 highest. (being a good highway run, and one tank flogged around town)

As above, definitely recommend a good "tune up", service and change (if not done already) plugs, coil-packs, fuel filter, O2 sensor, reset your timing and TPS, clean your MAF sensor and air filter (or replace), and check your tyre pressures and alignment, you'll notice a much nicer, smoother car to drive and better economy.

Edited by blk94r33

I get 800+ks on the freeway in my lardarse twinturbo auto Soarer (80L tank with 70L usable) with big wheels/tyres standard ECU and a heavy(ish) right foot.

I was getting 650-700ks (highway) from the R33 Gtst when I had it.

Goes to show what a careful tune can do for an RB

Cant wait to play with the 1J tune and fit a surge tank so I can use the full 80L

For my calculation, I was using shells v-power for a long time, with an accurate figure 11.7L/100km for mixed traffic.

Right now as the oil price goes higher I decided to use shells unleaded, with 2 weeks run, i got a figure 10.4L/100km, however, the difference is I went on high way a little bit more recently.

On the user's manual, it recommends both RB25DE/DET to use the 91-93 petrol, and I noticed the compression ratio for RB25s are only 9:1, which is designed for normal petrol, now I found using 98 should probably be a waste.

For my calculation, I was using shells v-power for a long time, with an accurate figure 11.7L/100km for mixed traffic.

Right now as the oil price goes higher I decided to use shells unleaded, with 2 weeks run, i got a figure 10.4L/100km, however, the difference is I went on high way a little bit more recently.

On the user's manual, it recommends both RB25DE/DET to use the 91-93 petrol, and I noticed the compression ratio for RB25s are only 9:1, which is designed for normal petrol, now I found using 98 should probably be a waste.

Lol well being that the Rb25DET was built to use 100ron jap premium unleaded and 9:1 comp ratio is quite high for a turbo charged engine

Eg, 1JZ-GTE is 8.5:1, RB26DETT is 8.5:1 2JZ is 8.5:1 etc

Also the RB25DE is 10:1

and that manual is probably fron the USA yeah? where 93 MON is about the equivilant to our 98 RON

So i would say time to go read more interwebs

Lol well being that the Rb25DET was built to use 100ron jap premium unleaded and 9:1 comp ratio is quite high for a turbo charged engine

Eg, 1JZ-GTE is 8.5:1, RB26DETT is 8.5:1 2JZ is 8.5:1 etc

Also the RB25DE is 10:1

and that manual is probably fron the USA yeah? where 93 MON is about the equivilant to our 98 RON

So i would say time to go read more interwebs

got any evidence to back that up? i would really love to get some clarification on this because if they were designed to run on 100 octane fuel then all of the skylines in australia should ping their arses off when run on 98 octane fuel at stock timing, yet i was able to run advanced timing on mine without any pinging. i'm guessing that they were only tuned to run on premium unleaded (either 95 or 98ron), not super unleaded (100ron)

No real evidence...but as far as I know the only blend of Jap premium is 100ron...whether they rate it differently to us I dont know

Plus there is always room to move with a factory tune(not every car, but most) , eg the LS1 is designed to run on 98 but will easily take another 5 degs of advance etc.

Edit - Mine pinged its nut off running on 96 octane

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