Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i only get 380kms now, when i first got it i was getting 450-480, yeah somethings f**ked

My R33 GTS is really bad on fuel, the best i have done is 240km on a full tank,

and the worst was about 110 on a full tank, and the only thing a have

change is exhaust and filter..... thats around town

You two.. change your spark plugs, air filter, and do a full server. Whilst you've got the air intake taken apart, spray wd40 into the trottle body (open the valve and spray in)

If that doesn't help... buy some silicon and cover your coilpacks in it. This helped my misfiring problem.

Run on 98, I fully recommend vpower. I fall in love with my car every time I've switched back to the petrol.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

My R33 GTS is really bad on fuel, the best i have done is 240km on a full tank,

and the worst was about 110 on a full tank, and the only thing a have

change is exhaust and filter..... thats around town

how many Litres are you calling a full tank? you may just have a dodgy fuel gauge, or possibly a fuel leak. also might be worth checking your o2 sensor

You two.. change your spark plugs, air filter, and do a full server. Whilst you've got the air intake taken apart, spray wd40 into the trottle body (open the valve and spray in)

If that doesn't help... buy some silicon and cover your coilpacks in it. This helped my misfiring problem.

Run on 98, I fully recommend vpower. I fall in love with my car every time I've switched back to the petrol.

why not use throttle body/carby cleaner?

r33 auto getting around 450KM on a full tank with mixed driving :) after 220,000kms of mileage and a recent fuel filter replacement (saved about 20-3kms/tank)

as with my reply to my first post, how many Litres are you calling a tank?

i have an auto vt commodore wagon. has 18" wheels and is lowered (both add to fuel consumption. wider tyres = more resistance and heavier rims take more power to turn. lowered = poor alignment of the rear wheels because of the change in camber and toe) and it has over 200,000kms on it, so hardly as fresh as it was. i drive 67.5kms to work everyday. about 55kms of the trip is highway, and there is a 1.2km rather steep hill a few kms from work that takes a reasonable amount of accelerator. i've had the car for just over a month now and the best economy i've gotten was 8.86L/100kms. that;s on e10. on premium i could probably get a bit better, but i doubt it would be worth the extra money it would cost, and after all, it's only a dirty old commodore, so i don't care what i put in it.

R32 (R33 S2 engine) (V-Power)

10.23L/100km - 75L/733km - 27/8/2010 - 139.7c/L

10.16L/100km - 55.34L/544.5km - 4/9/2010 - 141.9c/L

10.82L/100km - 40.58/374.9km - 12/9/2010 - 127.5c/L

10.07L/100km - 88.25L/876.3km - 5/10/2010 - 124.5c/L

9.60L/100km - 72.74L/757.8km - 22/10/2010 - 144.5c/L

9.58L/100km - 54.96L/573.5km - 3/11/2010 - 131.9c/L

8.52L/100km - 53.63L/628.9km - 10/11/2010 - 133.9c/L

10.67L/100km - 53.71L/503.6km - 12/12/2010 - 135.9c/L

10.59L/100km - 56.68L/535.3km - 26/12/2010 - 139.9c/L

9.89L/100km - 54.21L/548.4km - 12/1/2011 - 140.5c/L

10.34L/100km - 52.88L/511.5km - 28/1/2011 - 142.9c/L

9.83L/100km - 69.6L/708.1km - 17/2/2011 - 145.3c/L

10.33L/100km - 54.6L/528.7km - 11/3/2011 - 150.9c/L

This is almost every tank since I've owned the car: (L/100km) BP-98

My driving is mostly to work etc/city, so maybe %75 town,%24 highway, %1 warm up/idling/listening to tunes etc. rolleyes.gif

-10.04

-9.45

-11.94

-11.70

-12.07

I think it was roughly here that I changed my plugs and fitted Yellow-Jackets, above averages to 11.04

-10.21

-11.70

-11.79

-10.92

-14.90

-11.78

-17.70

-8.25

-8.89

-11.90

-11.75

-12.09

-11.38

-10.89

-13.10

And that lot averages 11.81

Now I've changed my O2 sensor, reset the TPS and changed the fuel pump and filter, last two tanks:

-10.18

-13.85

But have definitely noticed a good average improvement compared to before.

8.25 lowest, 17.70 highest. (being a good highway run, and one tank flogged around town)

As above, definitely recommend a good "tune up", service and change (if not done already) plugs, coil-packs, fuel filter, O2 sensor, reset your timing and TPS, clean your MAF sensor and air filter (or replace), and check your tyre pressures and alignment, you'll notice a much nicer, smoother car to drive and better economy.

Edited by blk94r33

I get 800+ks on the freeway in my lardarse twinturbo auto Soarer (80L tank with 70L usable) with big wheels/tyres standard ECU and a heavy(ish) right foot.

I was getting 650-700ks (highway) from the R33 Gtst when I had it.

Goes to show what a careful tune can do for an RB

Cant wait to play with the 1J tune and fit a surge tank so I can use the full 80L

For my calculation, I was using shells v-power for a long time, with an accurate figure 11.7L/100km for mixed traffic.

Right now as the oil price goes higher I decided to use shells unleaded, with 2 weeks run, i got a figure 10.4L/100km, however, the difference is I went on high way a little bit more recently.

On the user's manual, it recommends both RB25DE/DET to use the 91-93 petrol, and I noticed the compression ratio for RB25s are only 9:1, which is designed for normal petrol, now I found using 98 should probably be a waste.

For my calculation, I was using shells v-power for a long time, with an accurate figure 11.7L/100km for mixed traffic.

Right now as the oil price goes higher I decided to use shells unleaded, with 2 weeks run, i got a figure 10.4L/100km, however, the difference is I went on high way a little bit more recently.

On the user's manual, it recommends both RB25DE/DET to use the 91-93 petrol, and I noticed the compression ratio for RB25s are only 9:1, which is designed for normal petrol, now I found using 98 should probably be a waste.

Lol well being that the Rb25DET was built to use 100ron jap premium unleaded and 9:1 comp ratio is quite high for a turbo charged engine

Eg, 1JZ-GTE is 8.5:1, RB26DETT is 8.5:1 2JZ is 8.5:1 etc

Also the RB25DE is 10:1

and that manual is probably fron the USA yeah? where 93 MON is about the equivilant to our 98 RON

So i would say time to go read more interwebs

Lol well being that the Rb25DET was built to use 100ron jap premium unleaded and 9:1 comp ratio is quite high for a turbo charged engine

Eg, 1JZ-GTE is 8.5:1, RB26DETT is 8.5:1 2JZ is 8.5:1 etc

Also the RB25DE is 10:1

and that manual is probably fron the USA yeah? where 93 MON is about the equivilant to our 98 RON

So i would say time to go read more interwebs

got any evidence to back that up? i would really love to get some clarification on this because if they were designed to run on 100 octane fuel then all of the skylines in australia should ping their arses off when run on 98 octane fuel at stock timing, yet i was able to run advanced timing on mine without any pinging. i'm guessing that they were only tuned to run on premium unleaded (either 95 or 98ron), not super unleaded (100ron)

No real evidence...but as far as I know the only blend of Jap premium is 100ron...whether they rate it differently to us I dont know

Plus there is always room to move with a factory tune(not every car, but most) , eg the LS1 is designed to run on 98 but will easily take another 5 degs of advance etc.

Edit - Mine pinged its nut off running on 96 octane

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Selling a genuine Nissan Skyline R33 Coupe 8-Pin Power Window Master Switch Part No. 25401-26U10 Price $300   IMPUL Gear Knob – Rare JDM Upgrade Upgrade your interior with this genuine IMPUL gear knob – a rare and stylish addition to any JDM build. Premium quality, perfect fit, and an authentic Japanese touch for your ride.  Price:$300 Nissan Skyline R33 (Series 2) Sedan Tail Lights Immaculate Condition OEM JDM S2 a pair of OEM Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state. Price:$900   Located in Melbourne (Western Suburbs) – Shipping available Australia wide at buyer’s expense. DM if you need anymore details.  
    • KYBs are typically twin tube, putting them in the lower tier of desireability. Do you just want to replace worn out ones for the lowest cost? I mean, you wouldn't just replace one end of a car, if the rears are a similar age to the fronts, then they are probably nowhere near what they should be, and likely won't be great against brand new fronts. So, to spend ~$800 on 2nd tier dampers, when you could get a decent set of MCA coilovers for <$4k.....? As to the strut tops. 1st up, the Sparesbox site specifically tells you that they are not correct for an R33. Beyond that, why do you think you need them?
    • That's not very Toyota of the Toyota!
    • Bringing an old thread back to life Looking to put some new front shocks in the r33Gtst and the KYB still look ok for a road car. Unless there are any other options aroind that price $200 a shock?  I’d like to replace the strut tops also, is this the correct KYB no. For the strut top, KSM7124?  https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/kyb-strut-top-mount-ksm7124?srsltid=AfmBOoq-HDru8wSlLnQrhU9gCw_uYdKg8gUQzONY-EQOdnI5iXOWEUjY 341287 appears to be the front KYB shocks part no.  thanks all   
    • LandCruiser used to get a fluid flush every 12 to 18 months.   Only because it was about that often the electric motor on the master for brake assist kept dieing and needing to come off.
×
×
  • Create New...