Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

What does everyone think in regards to going with a hybrid motor aka rb25/30, or going with a stroker and rb26 head?

The main build plan is just for a dirty old r31 with a big dash of sleep =D then take it to dyno days and snap ridiculous boost into it, see how well it takes it

Myself building it, with a good mate who's a qualified mechanic (and knows RB's pretty well)

Opinions? I'm not overly a fan of the rb25/30, the plan was a stroker with rb26 head as the 26's love revving more, but i'm interested to see what people have to say?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352907-stroker-vs-hybrid/
Share on other sites

oh the budget is around the 20k area,no labour costs involved ;) just tuning, the only thing i'm wary of is with bigger turbos you need higher rpm, and RB30 cranks aren't known for their perfect harmonics at higher revs so where the 26 would be laughing and saying MOAR BOOST the RB30 would be a bit dodgy and losing stability.

I know the fact of the RB30 stability issue from an example given in one of my engineering lectures in engineering design, it came up as the lecturer loves skylines haha, wasn't perfectly balanced from factory

oh the budget is around the 20k area,no labour costs involved ;) just tuning, the only thing i'm wary of is with bigger turbos you need higher rpm, and RB30 cranks aren't known for their perfect harmonics at higher revs so where the 26 would be laughing and saying MOAR BOOST the RB30 would be a bit dodgy and losing stability.

I know the fact of the RB30 stability issue from an example given in one of my engineering lectures in engineering design, it came up as the lecturer loves skylines haha, wasn't perfectly balanced from factory

:ermm:

oh the budget is around the 20k area,no labour costs involved ;) just tuning, the only thing i'm wary of is with bigger turbos you need higher rpm, and RB30 cranks aren't known for their perfect harmonics at higher revs so where the 26 would be laughing and saying MOAR BOOST the RB30 would be a bit dodgy and losing stability.

I know the fact of the RB30 stability issue from an example given in one of my engineering lectures in engineering design, it came up as the lecturer loves skylines haha, wasn't perfectly balanced from factory

Ha ha ...you better inform R.i.p.s he doesnt know what he's doing and tell him he cant be revving those rb30 cranks past 9000rpm.laughing-smiley-014.gif

Many guys have built very strong rb30's ..but a dirty r31 deserves no more than 25 head slapped on a 30 bottom end.

I know the fact of the RB30 stability issue from an example given in one of my engineering lectures in engineering design, it came up as the lecturer loves skylines haha, wasn't perfectly balanced from factory

Dodgey lecturer, balance the bottom end properly and it should be fine. I wouldn't be revving a normal VL RB30E over 7000rpm - but if you are going to build a new engine those generalisations don't apply.

He could be right, I'm not saying anything either way but obviously there are alot of RB30's that rev ludicrously hard so in applications terms IE in our cars the difference may be so minimal that it isn't worth discussing.

There is however a 14% increase in stroke length between a 26 and a 30.

All RB's have bad harmonics from factory, it is nothing simply assosiated with the RB30 crank not being perfectly balanced. With the length of the RB crank, harmonic vibrations are always going to be an issue.

Ha ha ...you better inform R.i.p.s he doesnt know what he's doing and tell him he cant be revving those rb30 cranks past 9000rpm.laughing-smiley-014.gif

Many guys have built very strong rb30's ..but a dirty r31 deserves no more than 25 head slapped on a 30 bottom end.

+1

Well OP how about you just go for Win win win.

Get the Nitto 3.2 stroker kit with the counter balanced crank, Rev its arse off, make more power and torque than any jap stroker kit ever dreamed of And save yourself a wad of cash over the ridiculously priced japanese branded counterparts.

  • Like 1
  • Nope 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
×
×
  • Create New...