Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have been thinking about giving the car a mild boost by bypassing the solenoid with an adjustable bleed valve or the other option is to try and drill out the solenoid by 1mm or so to increase the bleed off slightly. Has anyone tried this way? Seems a simple cheap way of increasing boost to me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353039-increasing-boost/
Share on other sites

Do a search. Theres a huuuge thread on how to get high boost mode on the standard solenoid. Remember the highest you can go on the stock turbo is about 12psi. Higher than that and you'll seriously shorten the life of your turbo.

cheers, have already done the earthing mod about a year ago. Am hitting about 7psi now and that is with a supposed r33gtst actuator that I got off a spare turbo I bought.. I know the gtst actuator is meant to be higher spring rate to achieve more boost but I can't see it made any difference to the standard stagea one. I tried to just join the hoses that go to the solenoid together but that gave me big spiky boost so I reckon that if I restrict the airflow to just above what flows through the solenoid then I should get a bit more boost. If I had a proper 10psi actuator then I wouldn't need the solenoid at all as there would be no need to bleed any air off.

R33 actuators don't run more than a stagea one, they are still a 5psi actuator with the solenoid bleeding it of to 7psi.

Cheap options are to get a manual boost tee, the turbotech ones are highly recommended. Or get a R32 GTST actuator as Tom said, they are 10psi.

I used to run the earth system, hooked up with a switch so I could run either or. After fitting the front plenum I went manual, set at 10psi. The increase in power was quite remarkable.

$30 turbotech boost T vs frigging around?!?!

Boost T pretty clearly the winner.

+1.

why dont you modify the actuator. weld a spring onto it!

we did this to a 8psi actuator as we could get a replacement actuator.

runs a clean 20psi flat line! - takes abit to get it right though!

welding a spring onto the actuator is just a little bit too backyard for most people, that on top of unpredictable results, fragile stock turbo, and the option of a $30 manual boost tee that comes highly recommended, why would you risk it.

lots of cowboys about these days :stupid: ,

but each to there own :whistling: ,

most guys do it as it should be done :thumbsup: ,

i guess then they will start saying FUEL use is up only get 250/300 a tank :unsure::wacko: lol

cheers, I think I will look for an r32 actuator and do away with the solenoid. In the meantime I think I will just bypass the solenoid with one of these.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brass-lockable-2-port-bleed-valve-Boost-Control-/270583539142?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f000925c6

and start off with it virually closed until I get to about 9 or 10psi. Seems easier than the turbotech and no replacing the Tee either.

What I am going to do with the solenoid signal is just for a bit of bling. Solenoid signal to a relay, relay turning on and off one of these.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-12-Volt-Windscreen-Washer-Pump-Water-Bottle-/270509676174?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3efba2168e

and running to a atomiser jet ( spray can nozzle ) firing up into the r34gtt intercooler That I have fitted. Just need to find a space for the bottle. Should only come on when the high boost mode would be on!!

Seems easier than the turbotech

How is doing all that easier than fitting a $30 part to a couple of hoses?

The turbotech is not technically a bleed valve, it will only send air to the actuator at your selected target boost.

I don't trust them on higher boost applications but for a stocker they are definitely the biz.

+1.

why dont you modify the actuator. weld a spring onto it!

we did this to a 8psi actuator as we could get a replacement actuator.

runs a clean 20psi flat line! - takes abit to get it right though!

i think people missed this.

you will be changing between springs to get your desired boost.

also running your desired boost and not having a boost controller for a cop to see is the benefit..

everyone to their own.

I do also agree

$30 for a turbotech manual boost controller and a slice in the vacuum line is the easiest simplest option!!

I had one of these! works much better than the other products out there.

it's easier I reckon cos I would just replace the solenoid with the bleed valve, nothing else. start off with it closed for 5psi and crack it open a bit at a time until I get about 9psi. The turbotech one is more expensive and you are also changing the Tee piece and if as you say it works like a ball and spring type one, then the operation is different to standard where air is bled away to keep the pressure at the actuator down. I'll let you know how I get on!!

cheers, I think I will look for an r32 actuator and do away with the solenoid. In the meantime I think I will just bypass the solenoid with one of these.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brass-lockable-2-port-bleed-valve-Boost-Control-/270583539142?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f000925c6

and start off with it virually closed until I get to about 9 or 10psi. Seems easier than the turbotech and no replacing the Tee either.

What I am going to do with the solenoid signal is just for a bit of bling. Solenoid signal to a relay, relay turning on and off one of these.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-12-Volt-Windscreen-Washer-Pump-Water-Bottle-/270509676174?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3efba2168e

and running to a atomiser jet ( spray can nozzle ) firing up into the r34gtt intercooler That I have fitted. Just need to find a space for the bottle. Should only come on when the high boost mode would be on!!

I fitted an r32 actuator to my car - really straight forward swap, and much more consistent boost than any bleed valve can achieve. Highly recommend it. Just make sure you unplug the factory bleed if you do (or it will spike to 14+ psi..)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...