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Called the wreckers up here in KL: They've got a z32 AFM for RM400 and R32 GTR fuel pump for RM300.

Dont buy a Z32 right off.

I'm with SK on this one. It might be just wasted $$$

Buy it if you need it. You'll soon know if you need it too :)

Below are my expiriances - Series II RB25, if that makes any difference.

***insert dyno disclaimer here as every dyno is different***

One dyno i made 209rwkw @ 10psi (not stock turbo)

AFM was micky mouse.

Another Dyno i made 190rwkw @ 10psi (not stock turbo)

Again, the AFM was fine an dandy.

Yet another Dyno i made 203rwkw @ 13psi (not stock turbo - 40 degree day)

Again, the AFM was fine

My injectors were the only noticable problem, with the stock fuel pressure they were approaching thier limit. Not quite there, but not far.

So we kept boost limited.

I did have the fuel pump done, one thing you gotta do as a matter of insurance in a way.

So maybe put it together before buying possibly?

Might save you some money.

R31Nismoid, what voltage was your afm reading at those figures?

Also, how much would it cost you to redyno a car with a new AFM if you discover the stock one isnt up to the job.

I had 189 at 0.85bar, my stock AFM was reading 5.115V at approx 4500rpm.

Once you change the AFM the car needs to be redynoed, cost in my case was $300, but the redyno showed a definate improvement through the rev range of up to 15kw - subjective as it could have been the tune that was different, the end result was 203rwkw at the same boost pressure.

If I had upgraded the AFM first, I would have saved $300.

I am not saying you are wrong, it would be good to know what voltages you were reading though, as without knowing this, it is impossible to say how close it was to reaching full voltage, unless,

you run the car at the boost pressure it is tuned, then on the same dyno, run at a lower boost pressure and monitor AF ratios - this would certianly show any problems.

Hi guys, I think I need to spend a bit of time on AFM's maxing out because their seems to be a few misconceptions around that need killing.

A couple of facts first………………………

The R33/R32 GTST and the Z32 AFM's are all 80 mm in outside diameter, so there is no more air flow. They will all flow around 55 lbs per minute of air without much restriction (plenty enough for 500 bhp or 300 rwkw).

The difference between them is the R32/R33 GTST AFM will show 5.1 volts at around 40 lbs of air per minute. The Z32 AFM on the other hand will only show 3.5 volts at around 40 lbs of air per minute.

This means that the Z32 AFM can tell the ECU what air is flowing above 40 lbs per minute (up to 55). The GTST AFM can't tell the ECU whether there is 45 or 55 because it shows 5.1 volts at any flow over 40.

This makes the Z32 AFM better for tuning cars that use more than 40 but less than 55.

But………………………….

The ECU relies on other sensors to determine how much fuel to add. Throttle angle is one and engine RPM is another. So if your engine is using 40 lbs per minute of air at 4,500 rpm (maxing out the R33/32 AFM) then the ECU can be mapped to account for additional airflow above that using the rpm scale. So at 5,000 rpm and 5 volts (on the AFM) it will add X amount of fuel to that required at 4,500 rpm and 5 volts (on the AFM). Consequently at 6,000 rpm and 5 volts (on the AFM) it will add Y amount of fuel to that required at 4,500 rpm and 5 volts (on the AFM). With X and Y being determined by the tuner on the dyno using the A/F ratios at those RPM’s.

Exactly the same process can be employed for different boost levels, since the ECU has a boost sensor input as well as an RPM input. The scaling on the boost correction table isn’t generally as fine as that found on the RPM table, but the concept still applies.

Now this is not going to be as accurate a tune as you could obtain via changing voltage on the AFM overlaid on the other inputs. So it is necessary to tune a little more on the safe side, this might cost a few horsepower, but realistically that’s about it.

Hope that all makes sense.

Sydneykid, what about the GTR AFM? How much is the voltage range?

Coz I probably can source a R32 AFM from the wreckers here.

The skyline community here is very limited coz of the damn prices! I brought mine home all the way from Chch, NZ where I was a student.

Very rare to see one on the road, but there are a few around, ranging from R32 GTS-ts to R34 M spec nur (Nurburgring). Usually owned by the filthy rich, but some enthusiasts (like yours truly) around.

Oh, and there's quite a few RB20Dets transplanted into the older cefiros here too.

*sigh* Wish I had modded and tuned my car in Chch, definitely would have dropped in a Link.

Hi gobiz, GTR AFM's are 65 mm not 80 mm. So you really can't do any direct voltage comparisons. I don't think they are relevant, the samller diameter precludes using a single one on a GTST anyway.

Guys,

I just contacted the ONLY authorised supplier of Apexi parts here in Malaysia, it seems they've got a good deal going on at the moment. AVCR and AFC-2, installed, tuned and guaranteed for only RM3300. (I've been to their premises, really good setup with state of the art dyno and experienced tuners).

Seems like a really good deal since most shops sell the emanage at RM1500, harness will be extra at around RM600 and tuning at least RM400. Total=at least RM2500 for just the emanage. The only authorised Greddy tuner is located 400km from here. There doesn't seem to be many experienced emanage tuners around here.

What are your opinions?

Will the AVCR and AFC2 be enough for 200rwkw?

(I'll definitely get a GTR fuel pump)

AFC is ok, but it only gives you fuel, not ignition. I think this will make your goal of 200rwkw a bit more difficult.

have a look at www.greenline.jp they can sell for alot cheaper than in Malaysia, so as long as customs and tax isnt too high, you can probably save alot.

For RM3300, I dont see why you dont see if you can pick up a power fc, plugs straight in.

for boost control, perhaps get a decent bleed vavle for the time being, RM150 to 300.

It isnt safe to be running much more than around 0.85bar with the stock turbo, so a bleed should do the job fine.

IMO, get fuel and ignition done. An even cheaper option, have a look in the for sale section, as you see second hand AFC and ITC come up. Next best thing to a full ECU as you can control fuel and ignition. Expect to pay around $600+ (RM 1800) for both of these second hand.

Hmmm...

I think the man you need to talk to is Ben Martin :P

200rwkW is possible on the stock turbo but it's a freak thing where a good engine + a whole bunch of cheap mods (ie, dumps, EBC, FMIC) may get you there.

T.

Ahh the joys of getting 200rwkw :headspin:... and all you cheaters with an aftermarket ECU :bahaha:

From my limited experience if I had a stock car this is what i'd be doing to get 200rwkw from it:

* PowerFC

* FMIC

* K&N Panel Filter

* Ex Cam Gear

* Spark Plugs

* 3" Turbo back Exhaust

* Clutch

* Boost at 12psi

* Bosch Fuel Pump

* Fluffy Dice

I believe if your motor is in good condition this will get you to 200rwkw.

SydneyKid, ive been told the unichip is only good if u dont reach afm max out. Reason being the factory ecu then cuts in and starts pulling back timing. Now ive consulted a few people who have had first hand experience with unichips that agree with this, however according to the unichip website, they reckon the factory ecu will not pull back timing as the unichip can still trick the ecu into not seeing full afm voltage.

So i wanna know wats the deal with this. I want to eventually change turbos. Obviously a power fc is the preferable, however i have had not a problem with the unichip and the car is definately makin good power.

What are ur thoughts on this. The unichip has 408 fuel and ign point to be changed, so its quite capable. Id compare it to the emange, as they are both interceptors with simialar functions.

Thanks

Steve, always wanted a powerfc. But mines an auto (apparently powerfc won't work on an auto) :):(

Basically, the main problem to getting 200rwkw here in KL is finding a reliable tuner. And also the cost :):(

The same place who's giving me the deal for the AFC and AVCR quoted RM5k for the powerfc tuned.

Anyway, need some more ideas on getting to 200rwkw using the least amount of money :/

Anyone?

Cheers guys

My brother got 198rwkw from his 33 with just:

FMIC

Full Exhaust

Bosch Fuel Pump

K&N Pod (no CAI or heat shield)

Boost set to 12psi

Final Tune

This was at Advanced in brisbane, with standard computer and standard turbo. So it is possible with simple bolt on parts.

Buggalugs R33 was the same.

He had an exhaust boost set to 11psi bolted on a FMIC and made around 200rwkw. From memory it was a 95 model. Not 100% sure. A search from an old dyno day should show the results. He also ran a low to mid 13. Once again from memory. :D

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