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Hope it all works out for you, though I'd be constantly looking in the classifieds in here for things you may need. Little things that singlely don't cost much, but when you add em all up leaves a decent dent in your savings eg, AFM if you decide to use em, plenums etc.

Happy horsepower hunting

PS: Don't let money be the only reason for not doing a build, although take peoples advice about it seriously, i should know my build is starting to climb:(

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Guest INASNT
I currently have 321rwkw on the last dyno, 30 deg day, not shootout mode, 98ron fuel, 256/264 cams, trust plenum, tuned lenght manifold, HKS super dragger exhaust, hybrid 600x300x76 cooler, stock throttle body, z2 afm and power fc.

Thats nice, have $$ saved up for your rebuild?? :)

Wow Paragon, you have picked a very hard goal to achieve :D

Those Japanese 0-300km/h cars (Veilside does it in 13 seconds flat!!) have had incredible amounts of money on them... Realistically, probably 4 or 5 times your budget when you take into account the pure time spent on R&D and testing...

Mario originally started out his project building his car not for drags, but instead for Top Speed runs. I can't remember exactly why he changed direction and aimed for 1/4 mile drags instead, but I suspect that the testing and R&D involved in setting up a car for those kinds of endurance passes would be a fearsome thing.

Heat is a MAJOR problem with the RB series engine when you get upto those power levels. If you remember those blacked out parts on Mario's website he put up during the build, they are head cooling mods that he didn't want to disclose, as that's what he thought set his car apart from the pack. They were his secret weapon.

Now he's gone through so many heat related problems setting up his engine, you'll have to face the same problems. Doing an 8 second full noise pass is a LOT easier on the engine than a 15-17 second full noise pass as you can imagine, so you have a tough time ahead of you...

Very interesting project though! Good luck with it all :D

My engine had average compression on cyclinder 6 and above average compression on all others before we starting tuning. Then when I ran 1.2bar of boost and a month later lost compression piston 6 and 3 had broken ringlands, I can understand why 6 failed but not 3 any idea's ?

INASNT, I know the stock internals will be near the limits, but I have seen JMS's R33 making a little more power, bouncing off the revlimiter for extended periods and it held up ok to this sort of punishment repeatedly.

The japanese, I have been told by people who have first hand experience, have been making this sort of power with stock internals for a long time.

Just decompress the engine, upgrade the injectors and have a safe tune - easy.

And so far, I have flogged this thing hard, overboosted to 1.9 bar, bounced off the rev limiter both cold and hot weather, under full load in all gears and all is good. Not in a hurry to push things much further though, as I am happy with the power - I still cant get it all down.

Hi Rob77, #6 is the cylinder furthest away from the water pump, it always runs the hotest. Hotter = leaner, thus more likely to detonate. When you put it back together put the highest flowing injector in #6 and the next highest in #5.

Hi Rob77, #6 is the cylinder furthest away from the water pump, it always runs the hotest.  Hotter = leaner, thus more likely to detonate.  When you put it back together put the highest flowing injector in #6 and the next highest in #5.

Just a quick question SydneyKid - why does hotter = leaner? I was under the impression that due to the RB26 inlet manifold, that 5 & 6 actually ran richer due to the fact that less air gets to these cylinders.

I dont disagree that they run hotter, I just cant see how hot automatically means lean.

Thanks for your time,

Cheers,

Matt

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