R32 Gtr Future Build Idea

[bogeye]

Hey guys,I own a 90 r32 GTR 77000kms its getting to that time where ive been doing some research and ruff ideas of what i wanted to do with the car in two stages, really because of budget. First stage is a budget of around 20 grand to do a big single turbo up grade with supporting mods and doing a couple of extra things to make the car running nice eg. new hoses etc. Stage two will be done much later down the track as i need to get money for it will be either a decent stroker kit or a built rb30 bottom. Which is hard because alot of people support both sides. But thats another story and a long way away. First i wanted to get some ideas and a list of what my budget would offer best. My list atm is

All parts i used a JJA web site for a quick refference for pricing although id probably shop around and cut alot $$ off these items.

Injecters - sard 800cc = $1000

Fuel reg - sard fuel pressure reg = $289

Fuel rail - sard fuel rail 11mm = $460

Fuel pump - sard 280L/H = $600 * not sure about that alot of people use bosh fuel pumps and alot cheaper i just thought i had every thing else sard so why not keep it a sard fuel system lol..

Spark plugs - Iridium sparks ruff = $150

coil parks - Split fire = $650

coil pack loom - genuine = $180 *i saw this as an extra as i thought bran new wiring loom would be good but unneccesary. Probably wont get that.

Oil pump - N1 oil pump = $579

catch can - D1 spec = $90 *not sure about this item any suggestions, is it nessesary?

Oil cooler kit - brand name built for r32 gtr ruff estimate = $1250?

Silicon engine hose kit = $300 *extra, new hoses would worth doing right?

cam gears - HKS; IN + EX = $550

Boost controller - E-boost 2 = $800 * probably over kill for a ebc. Just my bro had one and i really liked it.

Apexi FC ECU - Just need hand controller, as i bought a second hand ECU without hc Hope it works! so new hc works with all apexi versions = $450?

AFM - bonsh Z32 + tomei plug = $370

Now turbo im unsure off, I really leaning towards the new series of GTX. Although they dont have a big range yet so they have a big jump from the 3571R to the 4294R, Im leaning towards the 42 as i did want a big single and when i get stage 2 done i think it would be good. Open to suggestions. From gcg i used a t04z turbo kid but used 42 turbo instead.

Turbo kit - from gcg t04z kit is $4265-2227(t04z) = 2038 + 2910(cost of GTX 4294R)= $4948

Exhaust - unsure my guess between $1000-2000. say $1500?

Radiator - already paid for PWR waiting to be made.

Tuning - $700-1000?

Labour - Id say anywear between $3000-4000?

Anything ive missed would be helpfull like gaskets and adapters etc what ever else i need that would be important or would be worth upgrading while doing some of these installations. The car already has N1 water pump. Every thing else is mostly stock.

As i said before all this was just from one website without shopping around so i could probably shave heaps of this and the turbo differences alone was $900 between the 35 and 42. I heard gcg charge much higher for the stuff i dont no if this is true tho.

I will be doing a picture maybe even video diary of the car cause i no how use full some of these builds and to see the out come, with dyno tunes and peformance gains.

Cheers guys sorry for grammer and spelling, sloppy typer with computor jargan. appreciate the help and ideas etc!

[Moodles2]

Lots of flaws.

Don't bother with a fuel pressure regulator, just get the right size injectors. Again 800cc really isn't much if your strapping one of those huge turbos on, especially if you want to use E85 which uses something like 20-40% more fuel which those 800cc's wont be big enough for. Jap pumps are dropin (HKS, Nismo, Tomei), Sard I believe is just a universal pump, not a dropin whereas Bosch & Walbro require some modification and have issues with 1/4 and lower tanks etc..

N1 oil pump, do it right first time and spend the extra and get a good known pump like a Nitto or a good jap pump. Also you have to realise the oil pump is a engine out job (or dropping the subframe which is another thing altogether). While doing the pump you should put a baffle in the sump while your there (Tomei for example), even enlarged sump capacity whether the stock one is modified or its a new weld on (Trust, Hi Energy etc). Now catch can I wouldn't do personally, better off getting cam cover baffles (Mines, Hi Octane Racing etc), although unnecessary an oil/air seperator would be great to return any oil in the breathers back to the sump. Another thing with oil control, when the head is off put new oil restrictors in.

Silicone hoses aren't perfect (well the cheap cooling pro ones etc), I've seen people complain on here about pinholes that develop, if possible replace with genuine Nissan rubber heater hoses.

Cam gears, save yourself alot of money and get your existing stock items modified so they can be adjusted.

Also have to remember a single Z32 can only support up to 500hp (theoretical, in realworld it's much lower), if using a Apexi PFC, I would use a D-Jetro at least (MAP sensor instead of MAF). But you should really choose a tuner, and once you've chosen then ask what ECU they recommend, the tune is more important than the ECU. Are PFC handcontrollers universal? no, it's a tricky thing paulr33 will probably explain.

[Beer Baron]

personally I think it's not a bad list. the fuel reg is not really needed, but they are very handy as it provides extra port to add fuel pressure gauge sensor which is a very valuable diagnosis/tuning tool. up to you. yes there is a sard drop in pump kit for GTR and yes they are worth the extra money. they will support around 350kw atw on pump 98 fuel. otherwise a nismo or tomei pump is fine and basically the same kit, just buy whichever of the 3 options is cheaper.

power FC is a fine computer but you'll neeed twin Z32 afms (GTRs run 2 of them regardless of single turbo or twin turbo). or run twin nismo afms if you want to keep some standard piping/airbox etc to your new single. you'll need the airflow potential of 2 afms anyway for your power aim.

silicone engine hose kit (I assume you mean the heater and coolant hoses?). don't get one of the cheap ones. either get a samco kit (good quality) or just buy the hoses from nissan.

most of your prices are pretty realistic too. I would ditch the D1 catch tank and ditch the N1 oil pump at this stage. instead buy a good oil cooler. you'll need it with all the extra power (heat) you will be making (unless you've bought the PWR radiator with built in oil cooler - I hope you did, they are great).

Too much labour and parts cost to put a good oil pump and sump baffles/extension onto a stock engine. save that stuff for round 2 when you build a new engine. the mines cam cover baffles are a good idea though.

your tuning budget may be a little light. I'd say more like $1200 to have it tuned nicely.

enjoy.

[bogeye]

Lots of flaws.

Don't bother with a fuel pressure regulator, just get the right size injectors. Again 800cc really isn't much if your strapping one of those huge turbos on, especially if you want to use E85 which uses something like 20-40% more fuel which those 800cc's wont be big enough for. Jap pumps are dropin (HKS, Nismo, Tomei), Sard I believe is just a universal pump, not a dropin whereas Bosch & Walbro require some modification and have issues with 1/4 and lower tanks etc..

N1 oil pump, do it right first time and spend the extra and get a good known pump like a Nitto or a good jap pump. Also you have to realise the oil pump is a engine out job (or dropping the subframe which is another thing altogether). While doing the pump you should put a baffle in the sump while your there (Tomei for example), even enlarged sump capacity whether the stock one is modified or its a new weld on (Trust, Hi Energy etc). Now catch can I wouldn't do personally, better off getting cam cover baffles (Mines, Hi Octane Racing etc), although unnecessary an oil/air seperator would be great to return any oil in the breathers back to the sump. Another thing with oil control, when the head is off put new oil restrictors in.

Silicone hoses aren't perfect (well the cheap cooling pro ones etc), I've seen people complain on here about pinholes that develop, if possible replace with genuine Nissan rubber heater hoses.

Cam gears, save yourself alot of money and get your existing stock items modified so they can be adjusted.

Also have to remember a single Z32 can only support up to 500hp (theoretical, in realworld it's much lower), if using a Apexi PFC, I would use a D-Jetro at least (MAP sensor instead of MAF). But you should really choose a tuner, and once you've chosen then ask what ECU they recommend, the tune is more important than the ECU. Are PFC handcontrollers universal? no, it's a tricky thing paulr33 will probably explain.

Ah really i always thought the fuel pressure reg was a must have in upgrading. Which injecters how can u tell what fill work the best. i would of thought for the 35 or 42 800cc would be fine, would i really need 1000cc or something similar?

Ill have a look at some of those jap pumps although its weird how everyone uses the bosch, walbro or sard. Im pretty sure there just dropin aswell.

I didnt realise n1 pumps were not as good as i thought. Ill definantly take your word for it and spend the extra money on getting a tomei pump or nitto. cheers.

Ill definantly take all ure oil control ideas in consideration most likely ill do it as u said they will need to take the bottom off. So ill probably do what u said cause the from what i heard the rb26 has oil heating problems or is that just with track use.

Ill definantly replace with genuine hoses as i didnt no about the pinholes

Yeah ill have a look at doing map sensor but i dont no where i got this from but i thought they werent as accurate or harder to tune or something i dont no so i was trying to avoid it but probably the right way to go.

Im pretty sure the new controllers are universal for all apexi pfc versions exept for some random cars version which doesnt really matter to us skyline users

[bogeye]

personally I think it's not a bad list. the fuel reg is not really needed, but they are very handy as it provides extra port to add fuel pressure gauge sensor which is a very valuable diagnosis/tuning tool. up to you. yes there is a sard drop in pump kit for GTR and yes they are worth the extra money. they will support around 350kw atw on pump 98 fuel. otherwise a nismo or tomei pump is fine and basically the same kit, just buy whichever of the 3 options is cheaper.

power FC is a fine computer but you'll neeed twin Z32 afms (GTRs run 2 of them regardless of single turbo or twin turbo). or run twin nismo afms if you want to keep some standard piping/airbox etc to your new single. you'll need the airflow potential of 2 afms anyway for your power aim.

silicone engine hose kit (I assume you mean the heater and coolant hoses?). don't get one of the cheap ones. either get a samco kit (good quality) or just buy the hoses from nissan.

most of your prices are pretty realistic too. I would ditch the D1 catch tank and ditch the N1 oil pump at this stage. instead buy a good oil cooler. you'll need it with all the extra power (heat) you will be making (unless you've bought the PWR radiator with built in oil cooler - I hope you did, they are great).

Too much labour and parts cost to put a good oil pump and sump baffles/extension onto a stock engine. save that stuff for round 2 when you build a new engine. the mines cam cover baffles are a good idea though.

your tuning budget may be a little light. I'd say more like $1200 to have it tuned nicely.

enjoy.

Ah really well if it adds a port for fuel pressure guage and good for tuning etc, ill most likely get one, As i do want to put all the major guages in, as i do like to keep an eye on everything and how things are running.

Yeah 350kw is probably the max ill go before doing the internals to keep it safe. even that seems high to some people. Although the gtr is in good nic and only 77 thousand k's and kept stock seems like it has been well looked after and will beable to handle it. So ill probably get any of the drop in pumps u suggested.

Ah ok thanks heaps i didnt even realise i need the 2 pods and afm setup for a single turbo. But i no what u mean cause ive seen that on most big single upgrades for the gtr's.

Yeah moodles said the same thing about the silicon hoses, ill definantly get either genuine hoses or samco as u suggested.

Aight that might be a good idea to save that stuff for stage 2 as hell be taking the engine out anyways. Yeah im not to sure i asked a mate to order in the pwr radiator for me, i didnt no that u could get oil cooler built in so i doubt he got that one. Probably just the standard one it cost about 950 cant remember as it was a while ago and were still waiting for it. Is their a big waiting list or something? lol. should really give him a call... but yeah ill definantly get a decent oil cooler kit likes a blitz one specially made for gtr. I heard the universal kits arnt that good. Oil pressure problems or something i dont no.

Well i live in sydney so yeah im sure theres lots of decent tuners out there that do the power fc, but any suggestions? for 1200 id want the best haha

cheers mate thanks for the good idea's and suggestions id definantly do some more research and probably go with ure ideas.

p.s i ran my idea's off to a mate about the gtx series turbos and he suggestions heading towards the 35. Although he did have an idea of maybe even running twin gtx30's, even tho i wanted the big single, that doesnt sound half bad? what u guys think?

[R31Nismoid]

Terrible list as moodles said.

You really need to do your homework mate. You are just brand name shopping rather than beneficial shopping.

Don’t need:

Fuel rail

Fuel reg

Injectors are too small for 440rwkw+

Iridi plugs

Coil loom

Useless d1 “catch can”

Hose kit, get proper Nissan

I’m sure there are more. Things like gearboxes, clutches, suspension, brakes etc are not covered at all and will easily see you drop another 15k.

Also you are running a factory motor, A GTX35 or a GT42 are far too big for 350rwkw. Don’t think just because it has “low” km’s and it was “babied” that it will last. Biggest misconception so far.

So in the mean time why don’t you buy a turbo more appropriate and then change once you actually DO get a new bottom end built? As most people will know, nothing ever happens in 2 weeks.

Time and time again people come here with big super el-grande plans, rarely do they eventuate

Also N1 pumps are not necessarily a problem. There have been a select few failures, out of probably 1000’s of pumps. No pump is indestructible if abused whether it carries a $600 price tag or $1700.

[bogeye]

Terrible list as moodles said.

You really need to do your homework mate. You are just brand name shopping rather than beneficial shopping.

Don’t need:

Fuel rail

Fuel reg

Injectors are too small for 440rwkw+

Iridi plugs

Coil loom

Useless d1 “catch can”

Hose kit, get proper Nissan

I’m sure there are more. Things like gearboxes, clutches, suspension, brakes etc are not covered at all and will easily see you drop another 15k.

Also you are running a factory motor, A GTX35 or a GT42 are far too big for 350rwkw. Don’t think just because it has “low” km’s and it was “babied” that it will last. Biggest misconception so far.

So in the mean time why don’t you buy a turbo more appropriate and then change once you actually DO get a new bottom end built? As most people will know, nothing ever happens in 2 weeks.

Time and time again people come here with big super el-grande plans, rarely do they eventuate

Also N1 pumps are not necessarily a problem. There have been a select few failures, out of probably 1000’s of pumps. No pump is indestructible if abused whether it carries a $600 price tag or $1700.

Yeah u are right it is a stupid list, although i mainly did it to get responses like yours. Telling me exactly whats not worth getting or should get later down the track but not so much needed atm.

I also did it for information i didnt no like the hoses. Everyone has jumped out and straight away said dont get these hoses get genuine etc. which was exactly what i needed. I can spend hours sorting through peoples information or get straight cut answers that answer to my needs.

Well is does have a very good twin plate clutch in it already which i did forget to mention. I just assumed the brake setup was rather decent stock because it was built to win races right? so why wouldnt they use a decent setup?

The suspension seems fine atm but i will look at the later on or if i have spare cash to buy at the same time. Gear box, feels good nick when im driving it so i just assumed it would be ok for a while longer.

You are right about assuming its been babied cause in those 77 thousand k's could been reved out every time. Although these cars were pretty much built to do that so in stock form it cant of hurt it that bad cause they been tweaked down so hard, and the chances of it even been thrashed every its been driven seems highly unlikely and i noticed in most cases the ones that have been thrashed or ran really hot i noticed paint of the intake manifold and other such things. which in my case looks in good nick thats all, or just respayed but everyone ive showed, says its a very nice, clean gtr especially the engine, even my mechanic has said the engine looks very good.

So is the stock fuel rail fine? when do u upgrade the fuel rail then like only 1000+hp or something? I just thought while doing the fuel system i would get a whole new setup.

I have been thinking about the turbo setup too. seemed way to big, I am now leaning towards the gtx35 or maybe even twin gtx30's which would be interesting.

So what injecters would i be looking at like 1000cc?

Thanks heaps for your help

[Beer Baron]

you don't need twin GTX30s. if you want twins stick with proven set-ups like garret -5s (HKS 2530s) they will get you to 350kw. otherwise just chose a turbo suitable for your power level.

yes you don't need a fuel rail. yeah probably 1000hp you would consider one mandatory as by that stage you'd want to be running a twin feed rail. but there is no harm fitting one if you want it. it's just another few hundred bucks that you don't really need to spend.

1000cc injectors are fine if you ultimately want 1000hp but then the drop in sard/nismo/tomei pump won't be able to pump enough fuel to supply them. for what you want I would stick with a nismo in tank fuel pump and a set of sard 700cc injectors. they are good for 700hp which is more than enough for a standard 20 year old engine. you don't need anything else fuel system wise (except maybe add a direct power feed wire from your battery with a relay to the fuel pump to ensure it's getting good voltage)

yes it's true the japanese oil cooler kits (trust, blitz and HKS) are very good quality and fit and perform very well. they cost a lot compared to the cheap universal chinese kits but they fit perfectly and work and keep working for years. I would spend the extra dough and get a good one. I prefer trust but if you like the blitz one for whatever reason there is nothing wrong with them either.

as for tuner recommendations there are heaps in sydney, go and see some and talk to them about what you want or at least call them up. get some quotes etc. Envy imports in brookvale have great facilities and do good work, they are also doing lots of E85 stuff at the moment if you're inclined to go that way. I also like HITMAN which is way out west (like penrith way), Matt is a good tuner and has been doing power FCs for years and years. Scott at Insight motorsport is a very smart guy and a good tuner too, so is Ben at Unique Autosports. None of them are perfect though, so my advice is talk to a few and find one you are comfortable with, or that's close to you or whatever measure you want to compare them all by.

[DR 32R]

Sard make a 1000 injector, compatible with your rail. ID1000s. sometimes given the cost of injectors, a rail injector combo isn't as bad money wise as sards and your existing rail. +1 get a nitto or tomei oil pump.

[bogeye]

you don't need twin GTX30s. if you want twins stick with proven set-ups like garret -5s (HKS 2530s) they will get you to 350kw. otherwise just chose a turbo suitable for your power level.

yes you don't need a fuel rail. yeah probably 1000hp you would consider one mandatory as by that stage you'd want to be running a twin feed rail. but there is no harm fitting one if you want it. it's just another few hundred bucks that you don't really need to spend.

1000cc injectors are fine if you ultimately want 1000hp but then the drop in sard/nismo/tomei pump won't be able to pump enough fuel to supply them. for what you want I would stick with a nismo in tank fuel pump and a set of sard 700cc injectors. they are good for 700hp which is more than enough for a standard 20 year old engine. you don't need anything else fuel system wise (except maybe add a direct power feed wire from your battery with a relay to the fuel pump to ensure it's getting good voltage)

yes it's true the japanese oil cooler kits (trust, blitz and HKS) are very good quality and fit and perform very well. they cost a lot compared to the cheap universal chinese kits but they fit perfectly and work and keep working for years. I would spend the extra dough and get a good one. I prefer trust but if you like the blitz one for whatever reason there is nothing wrong with them either.

as for tuner recommendations there are heaps in sydney, go and see some and talk to them about what you want or at least call them up. get some quotes etc. Envy imports in brookvale have great facilities and do good work, they are also doing lots of E85 stuff at the moment if you're inclined to go that way. I also like HITMAN which is way out west (like penrith way), Matt is a good tuner and has been doing power FCs for years and years. Scott at Insight motorsport is a very smart guy and a good tuner too, so is Ben at Unique Autosports. None of them are perfect though, so my advice is talk to a few and find one you are comfortable with, or that's close to you or whatever measure you want to compare them all by.

yeah thats true, i think i might settle with the gtx3571r as its big enough for my needs. My only comparism was my brothers gts-t and he had a gt34 something apparently it was a specially made drag one he was one of the lucky ones and got one. That really worked well. So for a rb26 i rekon the 35 will suite my needs. It would definantly beable to handle like 20-25 pounds yeah?

Aight ill cross the fuel rail off my list. Thanks heaps

Yeah so i was right heading towards the 700-800cc mark for injectors. Any of those pumps sounds good to me. Just one pump? i noticed alot of people use 2?

Thanks for the tuner advice. Ill have a look at them. Although i dont think HITMAN is very good, when my mate got his pfc tuned apparently he only tuned it from the handcontroller? Cause when he took it to another tuner he said the tune on this was shit running rich and could make another 20-30kw safetly and better daily driver. So i dont no ill have a look tho thanks heaps.

Yeah i just spoke to the guy who orderd my pwr radiator and he said hes gunna get the money back and go through someone else cause we have been waiting for months... I mentioned to him the pwr also make a built in oil cooler kit that u told me earlier and he said hell have look into it for me and re order it through someone else. Thanks heaps for that sounds heaps good idea

[Kaido_RR]

yes it's true the japanese oil cooler kits (trust, blitz and HKS) are very good quality and fit and perform very well. they cost a lot compared to the cheap universal chinese kits but they fit perfectly and work and keep working for years. I would spend the extra dough and get a good one. I prefer trust but if you like the blitz one for whatever reason there is nothing wrong with them either.

+1

Having look into the best oil cooler available for the r32 gtr, i would go the trust kit, however there make afew design go for the one which mounts it in the passenger side, as it comes with all the ducting you will need.

[Beer Baron]

well to be honest if you're going to get the PWR radiator spend the bit extra and get the one with the built in oil cooler. it works very well. you'll need to buy a few bits to get it all hooked up but it's not rocket science. just tell PWR you want the 32 GTR radiator with the built in oil cooler with -10 fittings. it's a bit more expensive from memory. over $1000. maybe $1200 or so. but well worth it. better than spending $950 on the radiator and $1000 on the trust oil cooler kit (as great as it is). but in reality if you are not having water temp problems why buy a radiator at all? my old circuit GTR with 280kw and a good (trust, guard moutned kit) oil cooler NEVER had any water temp issues with the standard radiator.

[bogeye]

well to be honest if you're going to get the PWR radiator spend the bit extra and get the one with the built in oil cooler. it works very well. you'll need to buy a few bits to get it all hooked up but it's not rocket science. just tell PWR you want the 32 GTR radiator with the built in oil cooler with -10 fittings. it's a bit more expensive from memory. over $1000. maybe $1200 or so. but well worth it. better than spending $950 on the radiator and $1000 on the trust oil cooler kit (as great as it is). but in reality if you are not having water temp problems why buy a radiator at all? my old circuit GTR with 280kw and a good (trust, guard moutned kit) oil cooler NEVER had any water temp issues with the standard radiator.

Yeah mate sounds like a really good suggestion. Im definantly gunna try get that radiator/oil kit instead.

I was also wondering what u would think about the GTX3571r, not many people have tried the gtx series, i was going to get the t04z turbo kit from gcg before i found out about the new range (gtx). What would u choose for a decent sized single turbo?

Thanks heaps for the help btw beer baron

[Rolls]

Budget another $8k to build the motor when it goes pop, could last ages, could pop not long after especially if the tune isn't 100%

[DR 32R]

Given that police are open about targeting imports. I think you should consider staying with twin low mount turbos. You can have the power with close to stock appearence.

[Takahashi GTR]

Good call, low mount HKS 25/30's are great turbo's. Keep it looking stock but have power beneath.

[Beer Baron]

I really think the T04Z is too big. they are a very old design turbo that were sort of re-marketed by HKS in the mid 2000's as something new and great (by adding the Z to T04). in reality they are fairly average on the power vs response compromise BUT with some good supporting work can be make to work pretty well. but without all that other supporting work it will be a dog.

some small twins like HKS 2530s (or the garret equivalents) are a good match for a 26 and give a great compromise between response and power. 330-350kw in a street GTR is still a shit load of power.

if you really want a single consider the new borg warner EFR turbos or the new garret GTX turbos. just sit back for a few months watching various forums and learn from others experience. there is not enough real world experience out there yet to say whether they are worth the premium or not.

[bogeye]

I really think the T04Z is too big. they are a very old design turbo that were sort of re-marketed by HKS in the mid 2000's as something new and great (by adding the Z to T04). in reality they are fairly average on the power vs response compromise BUT with some good supporting work can be make to work pretty well. but without all that other supporting work it will be a dog.

some small twins like HKS 2530s (or the garret equivalents) are a good match for a 26 and give a great compromise between response and power. 330-350kw in a street GTR is still a shit load of power.

if you really want a single consider the new borg warner EFR turbos or the new garret GTX turbos. just sit back for a few months watching various forums and learn from others experience. there is not enough real world experience out there yet to say whether they are worth the premium or not.

yeah true, ive been looking at that efr series and it looks really good. I think i might try them if they come out soon. I couldnt find any information on when they come out in australia. I found one website that selling them in usa called full race. So i dont no why we dont have them yet but ah well hope fully soon. Cheers for the advice baron

[Beer Baron]

you can buy them direct from full race. I'm not sure any one in aus will be selling them here any time soon. the AUD is very strong vs USD at the moment so it's a good time to buy from there.

R

[bogeye]

you can buy them direct from full race. I'm not sure any one in aus will be selling them here any time soon. the AUD is very strong vs USD at the moment so it's a good time to buy from there.

R

yeah true, i contacted gcg and they said there getting them very soon, all the bigger sized turbos are twin scroll so its gunna be interesting to see if they get those expensive manifolds too for like $2200 from full race. Wonder how much just the turbo kid is going to cost..

another question on intercoolers, im pretty sure my intercooler is stock although it does had nismo sprayed on the front of it. for big single turbo obviously you would need large intercooler yer? What brand/size/type would i get? cause i noticed u can get so called drag ones that a massive "bar and plate, 3.15" outlets, 600x300x120 or is that over the top and 600x300x100 do fine? Would i get bar and plate or tube and fin? suggested brands too

Oh and umm what size outlets do you generally look for. Same size on the outlet of the turbo or bigger?

Cheers!