Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day

While driving at highway speed my transmission light comes on and it wont shift into 4th gear. not even in manual shift mode.

It only happens when i go on long drives at highway speeds.

All i usually do is pull over switch the car off, remove the keys count to 10 turn the car on and im off with no problems.

I get the transmission serviced regularly and nothing is ever found out of the ordinary.

Anyone experienced this?? it doesnt happen on short trips, only really long ones probably 4 hours plus. And the last thing i want is to be broken down in the middle of nowhere.

I know the box doesn't shift into 4th until its reached its operating temperature (5 minutes of driving usually). But could it have something to do with sitting on the one speed and the box not doing much. there is a transmission cooler under the front driver side guard. Perhaps something to to with a thermostat sticking open and the oil is cooling down too much in the 100ks of air that is passing through it. Thats all i can think of. Its not like it happens all the time if it was an electronic fault i would expect it to happen pretty regularly but you just cant tell it might happen within half an hour of each other and then goes fine for the rest of the drive and for next 6 months.

Thanks in advance

Cheers

Rick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353216-s2-auto-box-dropping-to-3rd/
Share on other sites

Block the cooler and drew is it does it?

Hmmmmmm............huh.gif i think i agree........ as cause down for it is around blue...........tongue.gif Hi Tom wave.gif

Rick, i do a 400km trip quite a few times a year (in my auto S2) and have never had an issue like you describe, i haven't had any real issues with my auto. i'm sure the auto has a safe mode where it locks into 3rd and wont shift when it goes out on a fault/error code. when you get the auto serviced do they put a scan tool on to check for any fault codes on the auto? you can check the error codes yourself, there was a thread in the stagea section on how to do it, may be worth a try.

Yeah dropping to 3rd is like limp mode.

I do shitloads of driving in my Stag, even on 1300km trips with a fairly high average speed, no issues like that.

It's either not getting hot enough, getting too hot, or there is a solenoid or something dying.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As GTS mentioned, it takes a bit of faffing, some fiddling and a little modifying.  With the strainers, you can buy different styles. Some sit flat on the pump, some angle down.  Here are some photos of mine, ignore the ugly welds lol. 
    • The smart thing is to actually locate the pump at the right point down the hanger, so that the strainer can stay sticking out at a right angle, but near the bottom. This is the perpetual hassle with retrofitting any different pump to the factory hanger. Some just go where you need it to, some need fiddling and faffing, and modifying of stuff.
    • Some updates. After a lot of praying and some inspecting of crank threads, we've found that they were both kinda munted but nothing seemed terminal. The other option was drilling and helicoiling the crank. That is obviously the last option so we decided to at least try to get a OEM GM bolt in to GM Specs. So after honing/linishing the balancer from it's .002" interference fit to a .0018" to .0015" to .0013" it eventually slotted on to the crank. ATI state the interference is nominally 0.0007-0.0009... so it's still snugger than ATI reckon and explains the issues we had to fit the thing to begin with. New GM bolt went in at 37 ft/lb then torqued 140 degrees after which was EXTREMELY   but it tightened up to 140 degrees and it was a lot of force. So all things considered, the balancer is secured to the exact specs that GM want with the OEM Stretch bolt, (that ATI say you can use..) and the balancer itself is seated and snug AF. So WOO. Engine is now back in the car with lots of swearing. Bellhousing bolts done up, driver side manifold is on, AC Compressor and hard lines are back on the car. Next step will be to connect various engine bits/wiring/intake/radiator etc. Then oil and coolant and ... test start it? And of course, looking into this issue... which actually doesn't look so bad - It looks like it can be twisted back into shape with a set of multigrips. Anyone wanna buy my bonnet? Boy it looks good over there and sunk cost sucks.
    • Also this may be a stupid question, but how would you recommend getting the strainer on a downwards angle ? as they tend to obviously clip to the bottom of the pump which usually sits level 🥴
×
×
  • Create New...