Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dear Skyliners,

Can anyone help me identify this container and its purpose? It is located beside the throttle body/intake manifold. It has a "Max"and "Min" level indicator as well.

It contains some black liquid which is very close to the "Min" level. Do I need to top this up? If yes, with what?

Many thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35323-identify-this-r32-gtst-container/
Share on other sites

Thanks mate.

But is this the only cylinder that I have got to top it up with brake fluid?

Where is the other one? I understand that I need to top up the "brake cylinder" as well.

Or are both of them combined into this one container?

Dear me, the things we have to put up with.

It's the clutch master cylinder! It probably needs some fluid; brake fluid.

I've always wondered WHY people would want to 'TOP UP' their brake fluid inbetween brake pad changes, it gives you a good idea how much brake pad you have left.

When the brake pads wear the brake fluid level drops as the calliper pistons are sitting out more. Hence leave it unless it is below the low level.

I doubt the wheel cyclinders are leaking however it is possible for the brake master cyclinder to leak, they generally crap them selves.

If it is leaking you will see a line of fluid coming from below the master cyclinder, either in the engine bay or inside the drivers foot well roughly where the brake pedal is.

My Clutch master cyclinder crapped its self soon after I fitted a new heavier clutch. It was leaking fluid inside the car (down the clutch pedal causing my foot to slip). It set me back $70 for a newy from a local brake and clutch specialist. The clutch master cyclinder shouldn't require topping up ever.

Every brake pad change flush out the old fluid (both brake & clutch) and in with the new.

There is a junction box that also requires bleeding for the clutch on the R32's.

My Clutch/brake fluid always appears to get a little dirty. I am unsure why I am assuming the previous owner(s) hadn't changed fluid within the cars 10yrs life. When changing fluid I notice a noticible difference in brake response. Its soooo much easier to lock the brakes.

Go grab your self a few bottles of brake fluid, by the colour of that fluid it looks like you will be needing it. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
    • Nice, let me know how you find the 98 tune
×
×
  • Create New...