Jump to content
SAU Community

Head Gasket Choice?

djr81

By djr81,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have an RB26 just about to undergo a rebuild. Nothing spectacular the number will be about 500rwhp on 20lb's.

Obviously it needs a head gasket of some sort. Are there any preferred styles/brands etc.

What size should the gasket be relative to the pistons? Does (say) an 86.5mm piston need a certain sized gasket that may be different for an 87mm piston?

Lastly there are a number of different thicknesses available. Is the 1.2mm thickness essentially the "stock" size.

EG 11044-RRR46 Nismo Metal Head Gasket

Edited by djr81
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353244-head-gasket-choice/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah the thing is if you are looking at metal gaskets like tomei etc 1.2mm will actually be a tiny bit thicker than the oem gasket which has a fair bit of crush in it. from memory tomei make a 1.1 and 1.0mm but 1.2mm is the 'default' choice for most builds. the tomei gasket is a good thing and if your doing a rebuild just buy the full tomei gasket kit. it comes with head gasket and exhaust and intake gasket all of which are good quality and includes the oil feed restrictor too. so yeah you'll need the 87mm gasket kit, in whatever thickness you like.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

Thanks Baron. They do a 1.2mm (1.0 is discontinued) in 87mm.

There is a metal super Grommet one, presumably the other type is a Wallace?

age spot showing!!! lol. yes avoid the wallace, go for the grommet. it's true factory head gasket with or without hylomar is fine too but if you want a bit of headroom to run higher boost etc you are better off with a tomei or some other MLS gasket.

DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted

The cometic mls gasket kits are extremely good value out of the US at the moment, you can pick up a complete top and bottom kit (with head gasket, valve stem seals etc etc) for roughly the cost of a jap HG. It's fairly obvious but select the thickness based on the cr you want to run.

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted (edited)

I am current running 22psi on a relatively high comp rb30dett motor.

Standard head gasket. All I did was ARP head studs.

Been like that now for 12+ months. I did start off with a cometic which leaked, pulled it off, went genuine and was all good, made no changes to block/head or torque procedure (torque values where obviously different between the two). The problem with the cometic is they have a rediculously stupid RA, so the block/head has to be near absolutely perfect or you can get water/oil contamination like I did.

Had a tomei in a build before that, and mate went tomei, very good. I would recommed that over the cometic anyday.

You get what you pay for. Obviously some have had success with them so take it with a grain of salt.

Edited by James_03
RB30 Ceffy Enthusiast

RB30 Ceffy

Posted
Posted

agree^

I have heard similar stories on the cometic units from friends. I have never used them. Always used tomei or oem. Never had any issues even when re using the tomei gasket several times. Quick spray of permetex and back in she goes :)

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Ive reused my old cometic without any dramas. Just some hylomar and it worked with no leaks at all. Same goes with the acl mls gaskets weve used on the race car, many times over with just hylomar and no issues.

Any mls headgasket needs a very good finish to get a good seal. I guess the viton coating on some gaskets is better then others or some machineshops dont get the right ra needed. The smoother the better!

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

+1 for tomei I opted to go for it over the stock and no probelms so far, didnt machine the head or block but they were within the tolerance that the manual states. But yeah Tomei if you can afford the extra coin or if really struggling then go stock.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

strange. I've used and reused Cometic gaskets on the race car for years without any issues.

without any issues? dundan? lol. maybe without any 'headgasket' issues but it's been in and out plenty of times!

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

sure, but I've never had a head gasket problem, even when I've reused them (which I have plenty of times), even on heads and blocks that have not been machined flat.

Also...its worth saying you hear very few problems with head gaskets on RBs, almost none in fact.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah it's true. not many head gasket issues in general but part of that is most people leaning on their 26s have already blown them for one reason or another and include a MLS or other good gasket of some kind in the rebuild. not many people running 25psi etc on the standard head gasket though that's not to say it'd necessarily be a problem. it's just that we have plenty of other weak points to deal with first! anyway, everyone has their own favourites. I've seen lots of good results with the tomei gaskets and have used a few myself and seen them re-used too. plus the kit the sell is quite good value as it includes all the main bits you need.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah it's true. not many head gasket issues in general but part of that is most people leaning on their 26s have already blown them for one reason or another and include a MLS or other good gasket of some kind in the rebuild. not many people running 25psi etc on the standard head gasket though that's not to say it'd necessarily be a problem. it's just that we have plenty of other weak points to deal with first! anyway, everyone has their own favourites. I've seen lots of good results with the tomei gaskets and have used a few myself and seen them re-used too. plus the kit the sell is quite good value as it includes all the main bits you need.

Cheers. I think I will end up with a MLS of some description. Maybe ACL or Tomei.

Here are some other bits I prepared earlier which should fix a couple of weaknesses. :)

post-5134-0-49695800-1297742457_thumb.jpg

post-5134-0-76330500-1297742471_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR EV? The leaf of the Godzilla's!

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTR EV? The leaf of the Godzilla's!

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • RB2533
      UniClutch

      By RB2533 · Posted

      Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • Duncan
      Rv37 400r questions

      By Duncan · Posted

      My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...