Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have dealt with [email protected] and he is very helpful.

Back when the exchange rate was around .80c, through TireRack I bought two Michelin PS2s for AUD$1,150 to the door via FedEx.

Local tyre shop = $1,100 each.

Australian retailer and/or importer pricing is disgusting.

Has anybody tried NON Run Flat tyres on there R35 GTR. By comparison to the Dunlop/Bridgestone RFT cartel on R35 GTR's, It would open up a whole world of grippy extreme performance tyres, without the price fixing?

The softer side walls would give a better ride, more compliance to the road surface and therefore possibly more grip?

Just carry a can of the pump up tyre sealer as per all the M3, M5 & M6 BMW's, if you get a flat.

Any comments????

im running yoki advans on my car in 21" and along with the new wheels saved some weight - most of which was in the tyre as those runflats do weigh alot more than a non run flat

i bought them direct from yokohama japan and did have to wait a good 3 months for them to be manufactured, but landed at 2k im not complaining

i started at 32psi but the car moved around a little under hard acceleration, felt a bit soft on initial compression over bumps, like i was driving in comfort when i was really in normal mode. In isolation this probably feels normal, but having gotten used to the super stiff sidewalls of the oem run flats, i could feel it immediately

ive now got 38psi and it does feel alot better and more solid under power - ill be putting nitrogen in on fri at the dealer and pairing up the new tyre sensors (i didnt want to break up my oem wheels and tyres)

it definitely is a smoother ride, you notice the softer sidewalls mostly when running over road reflectors and that split second of inital compression when hitting a speed bump. Road noise is slight less as well, though ive dynomated the rear so on other cars the noise reduction may be even more noticeable

as for grip, i cant comment, my stock tyres only have 9000 kms and i havent gone for a decent run yet with the yokis. The car chirps bw 1st and 2nd quite easily now, that could either be less grip or lighter wheels or both

re buying tyres, yep +1 on tirerack, even after duties etc there is still enough saving to be worthwhile

Edited by domino_z

Can you PM me who organised the shipping? cheers.

+1 please

Tirerack shipping was ~$200 for two and $250 for four when I last checked. Even for bridgestone fronts youd be up for $1000 for two fronts or $1850 for four at a 1:1 exchange rate. I'd like to find a cheap shipper for two tyres only so I can get in under the $1000 limit.

And check the Tirerack website. 20" Advans now available $321 Fronts $337 Rears. Hopefully Yokohama doesnt get nasty like Dunlop...

Edited by fungoolie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
×
×
  • Create New...