Jump to content
SAU Community

Actuator Spring Adjustment

thatlbeme

By thatlbeme,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

thatlbeme Enthusiast

thatlbeme

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all, just trying to get an understanding of how things work. On the bnr34 engine the boost controll solenoid is disconected due to the previous owner having installed a HKS EVC 4 controller. The HKS EVC was disconnected when it went through compliance. As there is nothing to limit the pressure on the actuators they start to open at .4 bar and the maximum turbo boost the motor can get is around .6 bar. It goes straight to .4 bar at 3500 rpm and then seems to creep to .6 bar by the time it redlines.

I will be installing the HKS EVC 4 back onto the car to ge able to control the boost but was wanting to make sure the actuators didn't need some attention.

So is that normal for the actuators to start opening at just .4 bar and if not can they be adjusted. If they need to be replaced are the HKS actuators very hard to install.

And will the HKS EVC 4 work fine with the actuators as they currently are.

Thanks Ian

Edited by thatlbeme
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353251-actuator-spring-adjustment/
Share on other sites
thatlbeme Enthusiast

thatlbeme

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the reply Jonno,

I am thinking the .4 bar to .6 bar is just turbo creep. As it goes very quickly to .4 bar and then holds untill revs get up to about 5000 5500rpm and then slowly works up to .6 by the time it relines.

Not sure if the turbo creep will be a problem when the EVC is hooked up or is that one of the things that the EVC or turbotech valves will fix..

thatlbeme Enthusiast

thatlbeme

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Might have to give the actuators some attention. If the posts I found with similiar problems with the boost creeping up in higher revs are correct then the wastegate valves are not opening enough to let the pressure out.

If I had adjustable actuators (havn't got a clue what is on there yet) and they were adjusted to open at a lower rate would that adjustment also limit how far the gates actually opened, or is it the other way around.

thatlbeme Enthusiast

thatlbeme

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Took the opportunity to test the actuators today while I was poking around in there hooking up the EVC, was certain that one of the actuators would show up with a shot spring but to my surprise they both started to open the wastegates at the same pressure. Can't work out whats going on cause I would be very surprised if 6psi (give or take 1psi) is the stock spring rates for r34's.

Unless they use a low actuator spring setting to have an extra low boost level when the ECU detects a problem, and have the solenoids make up the extra.

Or someone in Japan previously replaced the stock actuators with softer spring ones, but can't see what the advantage of doing that would be although they do some funny things over there. They put on adjustable coilovers and actually used them to raise the car up about 1 inch, and replaced all the engine bay nut washers with white plastic ones and I am still trying to work out what the fluo light under the dash was going to achieve.

Edited by thatlbeme
thatlbeme Enthusiast

thatlbeme

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

EVC installed and setup and it has overcome the problems the soft actuators were causing. Set it fot 1 bar boost and there isn't any spiking (EVC is as close to the actuators as possible) or more importantly for me any turbo creep.

I am very impressed with the HKS EVC 4 even though its an older model it is working flawlessly and would definately recommend a HKS EVC for anyone who was having boost problems similiar to what I was having.

Edit, forgot to mention that the turbo's spool up much more quickly with the EVC than compared to just using the actuators. It hits full boost (1 bar) at about 4000rpm compared to .4 bar boost at about 3500rpm when the soft actuators were spoiling the party.

Edited by thatlbeme
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

just to mention...7psi may well be standard wastegate pressure.

the factory system has a boost control solenoid which would have been removed when the boost controller is fitted. The factory solenoid regulates boost to 12psi standard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...