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By thatjawncrazy · Posted
gentlemen (and others)... at 157k km on my rB25DE auto sedan and am getting an every-so-often A/T light, with the usual loss of whatever gear i'm in at the time. it always goes away once i restart, but i read the threads and watched every video and am told it will only get worse. i have zero evidence anyone has ever done a trans flush on this car. is there a chance that doing a flush will fix the problem, rather than the usual "replace the A/B solenoids"? just curious. rather not flush, seal it up again, then have to drop the pan all over again... -
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Seeing as they don't have one at all, yes, must be added. I think that MaxxECU is one ECU that I would not consider using. There is no shortage of good choices, so why use something that appears to not be a good choice. I mean, shit - I'd use a Speeduino before I used the Maxx. -
I've never used it, but yes R32/R33 GTST and R32/33/34 GTR have similar ECU pinouts so it should be possible. Their doco states a few things including AFM deleted and replaced by MAP that you need to add, no knock sensors (actually lots missing on their "street" ECU), narrow O2 replaced with their wide o2 etc Also worth noting that both Link and Haltech recommend replacing the factory intake air temp sensor with a better one as air temp is critical to accurate air calculations with a MAP. I think both r32/r33 GTST need the intake air temp sensor added. MaxxECU just say it is "optional" to have the sensor at all which I think is dangerous. -
Well, if necessary you can mix and match bearing grades, that's what Nissan did from the factory (on rb26 at least) However, the overall problem is no matter what you measure it as, unless you are totally happy with the result and put it together it will be going to a machine shop who will redo all the measuring anyway. I'd suggest putting aside money for bottom end machining, and let the machinist decide the main and big end bearings. Also, you need suitable pistons for the hybrid engine and going oversize on the bore is the best way to ensure good clearances on an old or unknown engine. Head is even worse, its worth getting that done while it is apart too. Certainly stem seals and cleaning and bleeding the lifters while it is apart is a good idea with an old head too, but also checking valve seat and cam tunnels
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