Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have no idea how much labour I should be paying to get my Clutch fitted to my car, I want to make sure I am not getting ripped off..

I am located in Sydney NSW.

Any info would be of great help.

Thanks again..

Also I hope I have posted this in the right Area !!

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353491-how-much-labour-should-i-be-paying/
Share on other sites

given most shops charge at $110/hr and it would be a 4-5 hour job out/in/machining and we have no idea what you drive - no real idea. I willl say that most are fair and if you pay nix you will probably get a monkey or two..

nah, never owned a business, operated yes, 2nd in charge behind the owner, and i do know labor is expensive, at least in this country it is. but not alot of people here so things will have to be more expensive to make up for it. which i support paying for unless i can do it myself.

You're not just paying the wages of the employees mate...that money goes into:

Office/admin staff wages

Office supplies

Tools

Warranty expenses

General f*** ups

Employee holidays

Employee sick leave

Employee superannuation

Electricity

Gas

Water

Rent

Electricity

Accounting

Insurance

A bazillion other sundries

And most of all profit...every business is entitled to it...mechanics certainly aren't rolling in it though :)

oooh yeah, i agree on that one ^

but i do admit, mechanic has to be one of the easiest businesses to run compared to something like a fast food joint or coles etc.

most mechanics are stand alone ones, or only have 2-3 people working there. kinda makes it a bit easier, BUT in saying that, there is a mechanic left right and center, so its hard to make money unless you specify in certain things like dyno tuning or vehicle specific.

on topic, 400 bucks seems to be right on for your clutch change then :D

You're not just paying the wages of the employees mate...that money goes into:

Office/admin staff wages

Office supplies

Tools

Warranty expenses

General f*** ups

Employee holidays

Employee sick leave

Employee superannuation

Electricity

Gas

Water

Rent

Electricity

Accounting

Insurance

A bazillion other sundries

And most of all profit...every business is entitled to it...mechanics certainly aren't rolling in it though :)

Well no wonder they don't make much money, there getting charged twice for electricity.

As for cost in terms of clutch i paid $700 (clutch + labor). Clutch was new uprated pressure plate, etc while inspecting master/slave, pivots, forks and fluid.

Edited by Shazza24

given most shops charge at $110/hr and it would be a 4-5 hour job out/in/machining and we have no idea what you drive - no real idea. I willl say that most are fair and if you pay nix you will probably get a monkey or two..

wow. just wow. $110 an hour? holy shit. most workshops round here charge $50 to $70 an hour and the dealerships charge around $95. joys of living in a small town.

(waits for the usual "yeah but i wouldn't take it to them because they wouldn't know shit" type response so i can reply saying how one of those mechanics that charge that amount has a 10 second sr20 powered datsun stanza...)

wow. just wow. $110 an hour? holy shit. most workshops round here charge $50 to $70 an hour and the dealerships charge around $95. joys of living in a small town.

(waits for the usual "yeah but i wouldn't take it to them because they wouldn't know shit" type response so i can reply saying how one of those mechanics that charge that amount has a 10 second sr20 powered datsun stanza...)

whilst I won't disclose my hourly rate I will say it is not far off that amount ($110/hr) . I earn every bit of it and I'm certainly not rolling in money :(

in the case of where i live, low rents help a bit. mate of mine had a workshop, was only paying $250 a week in rent (was a small workshop though). also he didn't have a receptionist, etc.

where he worked before he went out on his own, they had 3 guys working there (2 mechanics - owner was 1 of them - and a TA) and the owners wife was the office lady. generally all 3 guys were working 10 hour days. another workshop in town charges about the same, has about 4 guys working there. but these businesses aren't all frills like some i have seen. no brand new car every 2 years, no big cushy lounge in the office, no big screen tv in the office, one office lady and any left over work was done by the boss rather than hiring 2 people to do the work of 1.2 people, etc.

if i could've been making $110 profit an hour at my business (by profit i mean gross profit, not net profit, since i was in retail) i wouldn't have had to shut down and i would've been rolling in money (well not rolling in it, but pretty well off, over 50k a year before tax for both me and the missus).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
×
×
  • Create New...