Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1. Depends if the conversion was done with quality parts and finished properly, not just dodgied in someones shed. Not to say that because it's a backyard job it's necessarily bad or that a workshop is necessarily going to be good but suss it all out. Ask about receipts etc.

2. Dependant on what it is being used for and how good (not confident) a driver you are, have you previously owned vehicles without ABS?

make sure it has a 25t gear box in it and not a rb20 or a comme box or something

have a look at some pictures of the 2 and ill soon become obvious how to tell them apart

dont like abs ? pull the relay out when your at the track

They're designed for people who believe there is lost time to gain in the 10-20 milliseconds it takes you to change gears in a hurry, or people with tyrannosaurus rex arms. Some just like the feel of it though. Will technically wear out the synchros faster, but nothing to really worry about as long as you drive it smoothly / take care of the gearbox.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
    • Sounds like it is rotational in the driveline. CV? Tailshaft CB? Also.....didn't you just pay to have that bit painted and put on the car?
    • Yeah, when I dialled my idle down, given how much time I spent idling at the lights in traffic on my daily commute, the effect on overall fuel consumption was absolutely noticeable.
×
×
  • Create New...