Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Either the gear shifter is lower in height or the throw (so the distance between each gear) is shorter, or both of these things. It depends on the brand.

Personally i'm not a big fan of them and find the throw to be short enough the way it is.

Try not to be to quick with your shifting with a 25 box as they are a strong box but the syncros dont like it when you bash it from 2nd to 3rd, found that out myself, now my shift between 2nd and 3rd needs a slight pause or it grinds like 10 grinding things.

Mark

man up and get a c's kit phil.... you wont regret it

I'll be honest, I havn't felt a genuine C's one before. But I have felt a couple of no name ones and I think one that was a Nismo one and didn't really find it any better.

from memory, the Nismo one is not as short as the C's, IIRC Nismo = 15% short, and C's = 30% - wouldn't quote me on that though :ninja:

anyone tried one with a getrag 6? - i miss the RB25 box in comparison to the getrag :(

from memory, the Nismo one is not as short as the C's, IIRC Nismo = 15% short, and C's = 30% - wouldn't quote me on that though :ninja:

Nismo have two types, 10% and 25%. The 10% feels like a tighter stock shifter.

i have had a nismo 10% and it was pointless...

i have been running genuine c's kits in both my cars for a couple of years now and they are WELL worth the $

short definite shifts

Made my own short shifter with the standard one. Got rid of the rubber and cut it to the length I wanted and welded it up etc etc. Pretty happy with it, probably nowhere near as good as the big name brands (don't know havent ever felt one) but its alot better then standard, being solid and shorter.

So I'm happy considering it cost nothing :) C's short shifters I've heard are really good but. If I was gonna spend my money on a short shifter thats what I'd get

got a cees short shift in my track car.... i now also have f**ked syncros in 3rd and 4th..

if i had my time again with the same box i probably would not have used one.

felt great.. amazing even.. for the first 6 months. after that it got worse and worse to point where it now is un usable. im about the pull the box apart.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...