Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there

I have a projekt in my garage, a nice R33gts25t without an engine.

I was thinking maybe i should put in a neo engine from the r34gtt instead of the original r33 spec 2 engine.

My question

If i get a neo engine complete with harnes will if fit right in, it´s the wiring i´m thinking about.

A had a plan with a rb26 but i will skip that because the wiring will be an a hole to get right.

Please help me.

Kind regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353656-neo-engine-into-r33-wiring/
Share on other sites

It's easier to wire an rb26 into it than a neo.

Neither are overly hard to do once you have the ecu diagrams and you have a decent idea what your doing.

The neo engine will fit most of the engine accessories will work fine but the wiring loom from the neo requires work to get it running.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't really know general street pads too well, but there is no reason you can't get a low dust, long wearing, no squeal pad that works for those calipers at a reasonable price....they would just be a low end to medium price daily style pad.  If new pads don't have much bite or they loose it over time, it is probably just the pad glazing up which you can fix by giving them a good thrashing every now and then (or get the mechanic to deglaze them at next service) Track or semi track pads are where you have to put up with excessive dust (and potentially squealing as a side effect of that) in return for good bite and performance when very hot. Street pads have nothing like that sort of punishment, even long downhills with the brakes on are easier than a track session
    • lol yeah I'll check that, reminds me of the LDV thread!  I don't think that is the problem here, the starter doesn't even solenoid click. I did do a super quick test by removing the starter motor's power cable from the engine bay fuse box and the battery voltage was still 10v, so something super fishy is going on. BTW here is a R33 fuse box table I threw together from a few sources....use at own risk! R33 Fuse Box and Sources.xlsx
    • Johnny's approach, throw all the Nissan electronics into the trash. Best thing I've done to my shit box, go DBW.
    • Sounds like the JAX guys must have installed some really awful pads, are they BenShit/BenDicks pads by any chance?
    • Result of another R35GTR build. Similar specs as above except this is running our bigger size SS-2 profile option. Made similar power except this car runs on Pump 98 fuel. Build specs are: Nissan R35 GTR 2015 model stock engine and box. ETS street intercooler boost logi intercooler piping with tial bov, boost logi turbo inlet pipe ID 1050 injector DW 300C fuel pump Decatted oem down pipe and y pipe& HKS exaust 3inch intake pipe Upgraded actautors HyperGear SS-2 high flow option Final result is 639whp / 477wkws hubs, Ron 93 / P98 fuel at 20psi.  
×
×
  • Create New...