Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Door Trim.


BennyR33
 Share

Recommended Posts

good afternoon all.

im new to this forum and recently picked up my R33 GTS-T.

anyways i need some advise on how to remove my drivers side door trim as the door will not lock. im not totally stupid about these sort of things but never owned a skyline before and just needed to know if there are some things i should know before i go ahead with it,

any help much appreciated.

cheers, Ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty simple,

Take the screws out from the bottom of the trim

Then there will be a screw at the bottom of the sunken door handle (one that you pull the door shut with) underneath the plastic circle (get that out with a flat blade screwdriver)

Then the tricky part if you havent done it before, is getting the trim surrounding the door handle (the door handle that OPENS the door, not the one to pull the door shut), basically it just pulls off, but its seriously tight, and you WILL think its going to break lol

I used a claw hammer with a rag to lever it off, but make sure you do it from the side to the front of the car.

Then it should just lift off upwards (the top hooks over the door sill)

Unless somebody wants to correct me, im fairly sure thats it :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that was piss easy! cheers for the help mate.

only problem is that i didn't fix my problem of the door failing to lock.. i have keyless entry. the door is locking but its not.. if that makes sense? any advise on what it could be?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol yer well i dunno how to explain it. the actuator wasn't hooked in so i put that back in with a nut of the bottom. it appears to be locking from view but its not actually locking.

spayed a little bit of CRC and it fixed the problem but for how long im not sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as I know, that's normal with most cars...or at least cars around that era. I know my parently VP Berlina does the same thing, not sure about my R33 though coz my high beams are f**kING PATHETIC while my low beams are blinding lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok so i couldnt find anything in search but my headlights... when i switch them to high beam the low beam cuts out?? its this normal? im thinking its not meant to happen,, any advise?

Yes that is right. Low beam and high beam work independently of each other. Theres a tutorial here somewhere that tells you how to make them both work with high beam but

As for your locking problem.... Do you mean the door lock tab in the trim moves as if to indicate it's locked but the door still opens? If so pull the latch off and see if everythings all good in there

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

well I just took my door trim off using this thread and most of it is correct though I actually had another screw behind the elec windiow switch that needed to come out before it would come off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 5 spd AWD boxes are all like-for like. They might not all be identical (covering >10 yrs of production means that many parts were updated as they went) but they are the same thing. You're not going to be swapping to auto.
    • Oh, oops, yeah, I'm getting the cams in the 2.5 replaced, so the above factory 2.0 cam specs don't mean 5hit, but, after alot of googling it seems the factory 2.5 cams don't like to rev So, yeah, there is that 🤣
    • Update - new drop of oil noticed. Leak seems to be continuing, but a slow/small one. 
    • Hey y'all! So I am the owner of a shiny new '99 ENR34 25GT-Four, 5spd manual. Took it to the tire shop to get new shoes. They mismatched the front and rear axles (225/40s on rear, 225/45s on front), so AWD system went bonkers for the next day. Took it back in, they fixed it, but I noticed about 8-9 big drops of red fluid in my parking spot. Leaking has stopped, but it's clear that the transfer case may have been stressed/hurt by this debacle. I'm taking it in for inspection tomorrow. If things are FUBAR, I have a few questions. - ENR34 manual transmission transfer cases seem impossible to source. Can a GTR transfer case fit? Or if not the whole thing, just seals or components? GTR is 6spd, mine's 5spd, so I'm thinking no, but lmk. - Finding a few RB25DE NEO AWD auto transmissions for sale, for decently cheap. If my only option is to swap to auto, what else will I need besides an auto-specific gauge cluster, and associated wiring? - I imagine the R32/33 GTS4 transmissions/transfer cases are a no-go? They're not NEO engines, so unsure. - RB25DET/4WD setup from the Stagea, any parts that transfer over? I did search up for this on SAU and google, very little info covered.   This is my first post, so apologies for breaking any rules, please let me know, and thanks for the help.
    • Thanks. I agree, looking at those plugs in conjunction with good compression/leak down tests I'm not too certain its ring related anymore.  I have a Swagelok ball valve on the drain and tubed it lower down to the left side of car to easily dump it into a container. I do not drain back into the sump. I've never had to drain it though as there's never been any oil in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...