Jump to content
SAU Community

Injectors Ticking With Reds On

Munkyb0y

By Munkyb0y,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys.

Its an R33 S1 rb25det. Stock ecu, with Unichip piggyback that was on the car when i bought it several years ago. I had it tuned for exhaust/fmic/13psi a couple of years ago.

Stock injectors, stock turbo.

Car stalls on me whilst driving sedately. I pull over and try to start it. Cranks, but wont start.

I can hear my injectors were ticking like crazy with ignition 'reds' on. This isnt right!

I unplugged the CAS. Switch ignition on. Injectors still ticking. Try a few other things. Still the same.

Eventually I pull the harness from the piggyback. Switch ignition on, injectors not ticking. I crank it, doesnt start. But that's expected.

I plug the piggyback in again. Ignition on, injectors not ticking, and car starts and runs fine.

So...

Is there a relay somewhere along the injector wiring that could be getting stuck open/closed, and by unplugging the piggyback, it allowed it to reset?

Could this happen if there's a bad earth somewhere in the wiring. Either ecu or injector loom?

Is it more likely that the piggyback is at fault, and i need to tear it out and look at a new ecu setup?

Could it be the stock ecu at fault in this case, and worth replacing instead?

Hopefully someone has had some experience with this problem before, and can point me in the right direction.

Thanks :)

Edited by Munkyb0y
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353761-injectors-ticking-with-reds-on/
Share on other sites
Supa Steve Enthusiast

Supa Steve

Posted
Posted (edited)

anyone?

instal a relay to control the injector power feed triggered from the ECCS relay feed.

very common problem when running aftermarket injector control if not set-up correctly.

Edited by Supa Steve
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks steve, but i understood very little of what you just said :)

keep in mind, this is only the 2nd time it has happened (twice in 7 days), in the many years ive been using this same setup.

and its been running fine since i made this thread *knock on wood*

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...