Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Need some help here I just got back and had installed a new forged RB25 looked all good until put on the dyno to find out that it makes less power then before (made 240rwkw which wasn't even final tune before an assembly fault saw it go back to the builder to come back with 218rwkw).

Tuner did a comp test to find out it was 100psi across the board (seems low as I was expecting 150 and the tuner expected 140-150) did a leak down test as well everything is sweet and sealing up perfect, checked, re-checked and then another two times checked timing and everything is sweet.

JE forged pistons

Forged eagle rods

1.3mm head gasket

hks 264 cams

Anyone with some suggestions that could possibly result in not removing the head please let me know!

Regards,

blinksta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354081-forged-rb25-w-low-comp/
Share on other sites

they seem a bit low but as long as they are even then that is the main thing. If you are really worried do a leak down test and that'll tell you the full story.

You can't really use the factory compression figures when you played with the head especially when you have changed the cams. The opening and closing times of the cams are different and therefore you will lose more compression before the valves close, this is part of the reason why bigger cams are more efficient at higher revs.

Edited by D_Stirls

yea done a leak down test all comes up perfect and managed to speak to the builder unfortunately he wasn't much help either and said that the cam timing must be off, but that has been checked I guess will have to check again.

The pistons were the exact same as before when making the 240rwkw, im thinking it might be the cams that are dodgy and have to go back to stock :S

I probably should have explained that better the tuner was speaking to the builder about the engine as to why it's making low comp and they were on the phone for roughly an hour and the end result was the builder suggesting that the cams could be the problem.

Sorry I don't know the actual comp ratio I will find that out in the next hour when I go have a look, but I would think that having standard size pistons or even a half mil over combined with a 1.3mil HG and drop in cams shouldn't reduce the comp by that much, I would expect maybe 10-20psi drop?!?

ok so I find out that the comp was built to 8.9:1 but they did yet another comp test and have some interesting numbers of 140, 115, 120, 125, 125, 105 or close to that which as you can tell is just completely rooted so to check they are going to measure (another r33 in the yard which is 100% healthy) from the seat of the spark plug to the piston (or something along those lines I will still angry from the readings) to confirm 150% that the engine wasn't built properly.

If the rings haven't bedded in correctly then it isn't the builder fault. there seems to be something wrong with the compression tester since the first test was all even and now they are all over the show. Also that much variation should have shown up in the leak down test and it would have been far from perfect.

As i said before you can't compare the results for a standard rb25 to one with bigger cams the one with bigger cams is guaranteed to have lower compression.

Leak down test was <=2% so everything was sealing, another comp test was done today and those numbers came up there is no blow by at all after checking the blow by hose and catch can, it was all measured with snap on tools as well so they are very realiable (granted not impossible to break or fail).

Putting bigger cams on a stock block will reduce compression but not that much they would have to be some very aggressive cams for that to happen and these are only 264.

no the cams have a large affect on the compression. When i played with the cam timing on my CA the compression went from 165 before the timing adjustments to 140 after so that is 25psi drop with just the timing being adjusted on stock cams. You have also got longer duration cams so your valves are open for longer and you will lose compression because of that, how much depend on the timing.

At the end of the day if you are getting good leak down results and no blow-by then the cylinders are sealing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...