Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, just replaced the atessa pump and was wondering what fluid is recommended. i know you can run atf style fluids but wanted to know what nissan specifies

as it is $5000 worth of pump.

Nulon ATF(fully synth reccomended)

Nissan Matic J(semi synth - will work fine but above is better)

ok guys, having some issues bleeding the system. have gravity bled down to the bleeder at the pump, i then power the pump up and try to bleed at the box

but not getting any pressure there. Is there a better way to do this?

You need to take it to Nissan and get them to switch the pump and Attessa on with the Consult 3 to bleed it properly. This should be able to be done manually by hooking up 12v directly to the pump and solenoid but no-one has had the courage to try yet. I have the wiring diags here but they are in Japanese...

ok guys, having some issues bleeding the system. have gravity bled down to the bleeder at the pump, i then power the pump up and try to bleed at the box

but not getting any pressure there. Is there a better way to do this?

When you say you power the pump up you mean you have the motor running? There is supposed to be a manual switch in fron to the driver's legs - will try to find the reference,

Here is one:

http://sites.google.com/site/tyndago/gt-rbleedingattesasystem

Can this be the same switch that people are using to run in 2wd?

still not sure if m35 is the same as r32/r33/r34, but if it is, there is a second bleeder near the driveshaft/subframe as well as the gearbox.....try that one first you might have an airlock

Yew should be a pump somewhere around the drivers side on the rear subframe. and on the back of the box.

that plug near the consult plug you short it out to ground?? the pump runs, (confirm with craig) do the pump bleed first, then move on to the rear of the box and do that bleed. then make sure the reservoir is up to the full line with no gap between..

or just pull the abs plug and f**k the 4wd all together :)

i think you just disconnect the plug and the pump runs.....could be wrong. anyway it doesnt in my car atm.

i powered up the pump and solenoid manually and bled the system, now have to see why the pump isnt being activated.

anyone have a wiring diagram of the atessa system?

i think you just disconnect the plug and the pump runs.....could be wrong. anyway it doesnt in my car atm.

i powered up the pump and solenoid manually and bled the system, now have to see why the pump isnt being activated.

anyone have a wiring diagram of the atessa system?

I bleed mine the other day.....all goodthumbsup.gif

As far as wiring goes you might find what you want in here. http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43

The Engine control and ECU pinouts are translated....they might give you a small heads up....Have you had it plugged into a Consult yet?

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha ha, yeah, I've had one following me around in my parts boxes since about 2007 I believe. Just a little iddy bit hole drilled in the one I have to let it vent out once pressure was removed from the engine side. Still no idea what I'd put it on, ha ha.
    • Just read this... Just a little bit of a wild one! Do you think the driver was testing out a new feature/device for how to lose the cops in a high speed chase?   I also suspect, if the box has a road sweeper that does magnetic metal pick up, he does a LOT of work in the machining industry. Which is what most of that looked like, machining chips from a mill or lathe. And I bet they're RAZOR sharp! And from an environmental perspective they really do need to actually collect all of those little pieces too. I wonder how many people still cop flat tires over the coming months on that road?   As for insurance company, yeah, it'd be interesting to hear what they say to the owner. But realistically, he's right, that "It's his fault". In the way that, it was his truck that spilled it, so they need to clean it up. However, neither he, nor his insurance company may bear the end cost if they do an investigation and find out it was caused by someone elses negligence (And they know who)...
    • Yeah, no matter what bad things people can say about Julian from Autospeed, he at least was capable of thinking and his inclusion of a check/relief valve in the plumbing for the Audi boost controller, that I made a copy of and used for years**, completely eradicated that problem. **It's still lying on my workbench where I put it about, um, 18 years ago and have never found a home for it!
    • I didn't actually know this! I've seen photos of the H1, mainly outside shots, and they just look "different". I guess there'd be a few little changes like nicer rims, and probably the fact they have nicer looking paint with some depth and shine, which will make any vehicles body look different to the very flat colours of the defence force.   I've watched the guys on GHPC convert their Humvee to LS1, and they've done some really nice front shock upgrade. I'm waiting for the next video on it with the rear end done. I can't remember if they've already done it, or I dreamed it, but I believe they're also supercharging theres. They will be in the future doing proper long travel suspension too.   If you ditch out your big V8, as rubbish as it must be, send it to my place. I'll let the unreliable V8 motor and box be here. I just like V8s... So I'll find something to do with it... Even if that something is just taking up valuable space in the yard. I might have something Skyline I can send back in payment... Or even Ford Barra motors  (From memory you're in Canada yeah?) So you can then play with the legendary Aussie 4L version of an RB...  Except they don't have that distinctive random miss at idle like the RB25 does.
    • Or you mean the age old problem of early 2000's manual boost tees, where they never let the pressure out of the line between the boost tee, and the waste gate, so after your first trip on boost, the damn wastegate liked to stay open and be laggy on gear change?
×
×
  • Create New...