Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Radius should be 0.25-0.26m roughly as the clutch plate itself is 240mm in a standard skyline. I'm surprised you overlooked this as you clearly went to a lot of trouble with your cut and paste

Actually I pulled most of the numbers out of my arse. 200mm was an estimate because I could not remember the actually number.

The points I made still stand.

Also it isnt a cut and paste.

Edited by djr81

Then we're in agreement? If you need to replace it, go for it. They're probably cheaper than factory flywheels anyway. If you're just changing the clutch though...machine the friggen thing for $40 and spend the dollars elsewhere. Unless you're slamming between the gears, trying to save every last kilo of racecar weight, or want to sit there jerking off over your ability to lift RPM faster in neutral than everyone else...there's no point.

Actually I pulled most of the numbers out of my arse. 200mm was an estimate because I could not remember the actually number.

The points I made still stand.

Also it isnt a cut and paste.

Oh sorry, I didn't realise you took the time to go to the windows character program to type the little half (1/2) symbols. My bad

Then we're in agreement? If you need to replace it, go for it. They're probably cheaper than factory flywheels anyway. If you're just changing the clutch though...machine the friggen thing for $40 and spend the dollars elsewhere. Unless you're slamming between the gears, trying to save every last kilo of racecar weight, or want to sit there jerking off over your ability to lift RPM faster in neutral than everyone else...there's no point.

Also if you are making more than 400hp at the wheels and using a button clutch it is a good idea to have one due to the explosive nature of cast iron when extreme sudden torque is applied

Then we're in agreement? If you need to replace it, go for it. They're probably cheaper than factory flywheels anyway. If you're just changing the clutch though...machine the friggen thing for $40 and spend the dollars elsewhere. Unless you're slamming between the gears, trying to save every last kilo of racecar weight, or want to sit there jerking off over your ability to lift RPM faster in neutral than everyone else...there's no point.

Yeah probably. For a track car - do it. For a road car it is probably neither here nor there.

But then we are all guilty of spending money on our cars for little gain or just for the satisfaction of doing it properly.

Also if you are making more than 400hp at the wheels and using a button clutch it is a good idea to have one due to the explosive nature of cast iron when extreme sudden torque is applied

For 7000rpm GTR launches maybe :P

Some of the cheaper lightweight flywheels have been known to do similar things too though. Either way, I'll be sticking with my standard flywheel until I'm on a weight saving mission.

Well, this topic was becoming so cliched with the age old argument about lightened flywheels (complete with some mathematical equations thrown in) I thought I'd add another internet forum favourite pointless argument - torque vs power.

Now let's hear it from the experts.

Well, this topic was becoming so cliched with the age old argument about lightened flywheels (complete with some mathematical equations thrown in) I thought I'd add another internet forum favourite pointless argument - torque vs power.

Now let's hear it from the experts.

maximum negative camber is where its at. :action-smiley-069:

  • Nope 1

I think it's a good topic...we've had a couple of different perspectives, all the information is there for readers to make up their own mind...and it got done in less than 3 pages, 10 earlier than I expected. I could torque about power all day, but in another thread maybe...

Good topic, yes, but the meat of it could have been covered in half a page. The rest of it seems to be the usual defending of one's position in the argument. Yes, I have seen it drag on for many pages too.

I guess the same goes for a lot of internet "discussions". Too many experts with their own lopsided view, refusing to give to the other side.

  • 1 month later...

on my r32 i changed my stock flywheel with a nismo flywheel (6.87kg) at my last clutch change. to be honest i cant really tell the difference in the way it drives any given circumstances. its no different on hills. its no different in traffic, although still a bastard in heavy traffic because of the 5puk clutch, but no worse than it was before. i didnt even get a placebo effect in acceleration. definately not worth the money unless your going even lighter for hard track use.

to some people it might just be wank factor

Edited by jonboy

Good topic, yes, but the meat of it could have been covered in half a page. The rest of it seems to be the usual defending of one's position in the argument. Yes, I have seen it drag on for many pages too.

I guess the same goes for a lot of internet "discussions". Too many experts with their own lopsided view, refusing to give to the other side.

Yeah, that's because someone will put up an opinion, and someone else has to quote them, knock them down, before providing their own opinion. That will start an argument almost every single time. Why? Possibly their both right in their own way, possibly they've seen both setups work, possibly each of them owns the opposing setup, and think it's the ONLY way.

I've seen exploding stock flywheels, I've seen exploding lightened flywheels. I've also seen MOST stock flywheels handle any abuse, and I've also seen MOST lightened flywheels handle any abuse. So who's right here? It's about mass opinion, and mass experience. The OP didn't ask for one person's opinion, hell he probably already knows that both setups have pro's and cons. So help the guy instead of pissing on.

However, if people weren't so critical of others all the time, we wouldn't see such defensive action. It should be as simple as posting opinions, one after another, the thread would b clean with only opinion, and you could weight the results from there.

Now I'm no clutch/flywheel expert, but one thing I'm good at is picking up personas over the internet quickly. (Being solidly online, everyday, for over 15-16 years will do that to a guy) :)

Everyone just needs to relax. State your opinion as requested by the OP, and have it at that. Kdone, kgood, klul.

I could paste this shit in every 3rd thread, anywhere at all, on the internet. Trying to imagine how self centered the next set of kids we'll see online over the next 10 years will be...

Yeah, that's because someone will put up an opinion, and someone else has to quote them, knock them down, before providing their own opinion. That will start an argument almost every single time. Why? Possibly their both right in their own way, possibly they've seen both setups work, possibly each of them owns the opposing setup, and think it's the ONLY way.

I've seen exploding stock flywheels, I've seen exploding lightened flywheels. I've also seen MOST stock flywheels handle any abuse, and I've also seen MOST lightened flywheels handle any abuse. So who's right here? It's about mass opinion, and mass experience. The OP didn't ask for one person's opinion, hell he probably already knows that both setups have pro's and cons. So help the guy instead of pissing on.

However, if people weren't so critical of others all the time, we wouldn't see such defensive action. It should be as simple as posting opinions, one after another, the thread would b clean with only opinion, and you could weight the results from there.

Now I'm no clutch/flywheel expert, but one thing I'm good at is picking up personas over the internet quickly. (Being solidly online, everyday, for over 15-16 years will do that to a guy) :)

Everyone just needs to relax. State your opinion as requested by the OP, and have it at that. Kdone, kgood, klul.

I could paste this shit in every 3rd thread, anywhere at all, on the internet. Trying to imagine how self centered the next set of kids we'll see online over the next 10 years will be...

Keep it to yourself mate :P

A lightened flywheel is excellent for track but for street driving i wouldn't even bother. as others have said its a pain in the arse. initial start-up and low revs your car will start to jerk back and forth.

Will it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...