Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

selling my mrs computer as she needs a laptop for uni..looking for quick sale $570ono

This setup includes...

Intel Dual Core 1.8ghz processor

2 gigs of RAM

Nvidia GE-FORCE 7900 GS gaming graphics card

Dvd/Cd multiple speed burner/reader

340gig hard drive

I-cute box with side clear window and golden orb fan.

19" WIDE Cimoi LCD screen

Microsoft keyboard

Razor gaming mouse

Teak cubical speaker

The computer at the moment is preloaded with WINDOWS 7 but it also comes with a LEGIT version of Windows Vista.

If anyone would like to swap this setup for a laptop im willing to negotiate but it would have to be with similar specs as the desktop pc im selling.

post-41719-1242641647_thumb.jpg

post-41719-1242641679_thumb.jpg

my BNR32 GTR is up for sale, my tickets are now booked for overseas so i would rather the money to spend over there than have the nissan take up room in the shed for many months. great clean example, the pics i posted on carsales dont do it justice ive gotta get out with a propper camera and get some decent ones!

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...TR&trecs=19

price is 19,500 ONO, im a reasonable man but in no rush to sell it.....

Tuyrns out I don't have a Intake Manifold leak, so I'm selling my metal gasket kit (Metal intake manifold gasket, metal exhaust gasket, and set of metal throttle body gaskets) to suit RB26DETT, picture uploaded of the exhaust gasket acouple pages back. Looking for $215 for the set.

have a rb25det manual gearbox for sale

it has a broken bellhousing which is simple as to replace.

the gearbox has been opened and checked over and everything appeares to be in great nick.

asking approx 1k.

needs to be sold soon so these rims are not sold on me. throw me an offer

all it needs is a bellhousing and your away

my BNR32 GTR is up for sale, my tickets are now booked for overseas so i would rather the money to spend over there than have the nissan take up room in the shed for many months. great clean example, the pics i posted on carsales dont do it justice ive gotta get out with a propper camera and get some decent ones!

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...TR&trecs=19

price is 19,500 ONO, im a reasonable man but in no rush to sell it.....

Goodluck with the sale mate. It's a effing clean car!!!!

Hope to see ya out in something different when you get back!

selling my mrs computer as she needs a laptop for uni..looking for quick sale $570ono

This setup includes...

Intel Dual Core 1.8ghz processor

2 gigs of RAM

Nvidia GE-FORCE 7900 GS gaming graphics card

Dvd/Cd multiple speed burner/reader

340gig hard drive

I-cute box with side clear window and golden orb fan.

19" WIDE Cimoi LCD screen

Microsoft keyboard

Razor gaming mouse

Teak cubical speaker

The computer at the moment is preloaded with WINDOWS 7 but it also comes with a LEGIT version of Windows Vista.

If anyone would like to swap this setup for a laptop im willing to negotiate but it would have to be with similar specs as the desktop pc im selling.

SOLD!

LG KU990 up for sell...used like 1-2 days that's all but need the cash for my holiday trip :( plus i already got the iphone..been collecting dust in my room lol, come with everything in the box... askin for 250 ono >_<

PM me if anyone interested......thx

post-60591-1242728116_thumb.jpg

post-60591-1242728143_thumb.jpg

Edited by L!sa

EOI:

Yokohama AVS 16x7 lightweight rims (small scratches and very minimal rash)

5x114 +35 offset all round iirc

(no centre caps but looks better this way imo)

wrapped in dunlop sp3000a tyres with over 90% tread (only used for approx 4000km)

these look good on a r33 and great on r32, quality lightweight rim

$500

pm me or text 0422 314 938

th_untitled1-1.jpg

pic of an r32 i found

th_car.jpg

i have a pair of ssr long champ.

14x7 +0

these don't come with tyres.

on has some rash.

located west subs of adel.

$200 FIRM

have a PAIR of star sharks

14x7 +0

$200 FIRM

western subs of adelaide

pm or [email protected]

IMG00007-20090510-1719.jpg

IMG00008-20090510-1719.jpg

For Sale: Nismo S-tune Suspension suit R33/R34 GTR

Good condition, perfect for street car will lower car approx. 20-30mm and provide firmer ride! See signature for details: $1000, will consider all reasonable offers.

PM or SMS 0432 562 025 (Western suburbs)

Mike

Item: ISC coilovers for 32 gts-t

Age: 1 year old but have been off the car for the last 6 months

Condition: Good only usual wear, Work 100%

Dosh $$: 1000 o.n.o

From my understanding there N1 which are still the current model

Click link below for all details

http://www.isc-warehouse.com/index.php?mai...products_id=183

contact via P.M or me/scott 0430 362 050

post-50484-1242815606_thumb.jpg

post-50484-1242815614_thumb.jpg

post-50484-1242815620_thumb.jpg

Edited by HVN 032

R33 side indicators 1 gd 1 has a hole in it, complete with globes $15

post-31991-1242816772_thumb.jpg

Bosch 044 fitting brand new $20

post-31991-1242816568_thumb.jpg

Hks Split Dump Pipe $250

post-31991-1242816622_thumb.jpgpost-31991-1242816641_thumb.jpg post-31991-1242816691_thumb.jpg

Garrett Gt 30 billet turbo drain, hose and clamps direct bolt on to rb20/25det $30

post-31991-1242816744_thumb.jpgpost-31991-1242816761_thumb.jpg

Garrett Gt 30 banjos, washers $20

post-31991-1242816612_thumb.jpg

Oil catch can with air line fittings for easy removal $40

post-31991-1242816603_thumb.jpg

Rb25det Series 2 Pink Sticker AFM with plug $80

post-31991-1242816551_thumb.jpg

K&N pod filter $20

post-31991-1242816577_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Gotta admit, I love the 20b Cosmo.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...