Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Recently had a Rocker Cover leak and changed over the gaskets. While doing this i thought it'd be a good time to change the coilpacks and spark plugs, as they were highly fragile and covered in oil from the leak.

After having to replace the original wires leading from the packs to the box (because they were rooted and seemed to have a different plug than the aftermarket ones) i found that the plug was also different that connects to the ignition box.

Having found that the wires are exact same colouration as the stock plug i just swapped plugs over making sure not to mix up any wires. This hasn't seemed to have work as when going to start the car up it seems to have its ignition out of cycle.

Anyone delt with this before or changed to aftermarket coilpacks that can help me out.

Thanks dewa32

Note: Pic comparing plugs is comparing the 6 pin to the 7 pin and not the one i've spliced.

post-72978-0-12419400-1297898633_thumb.jpg

post-72978-0-80877600-1297898636_thumb.jpg

Series 1 Cefiro use a unique ignition loom (inc ignition module itself)

Series 2 and 3 used the same loom as R32 Skylines.

You can buy both types of loom for the Cefiro new via Nissan.

S1

http://www.justjap.c...369&cat=&page=1

S2 onwards

http://www.justjap.c...871&cat=&page=1

I recall splitfire not having a listing that matched S1 Cefiro, so you'd need to get an R32 ignition module??, R32 loom, and coilpacks suit R32.

Quiet often, an R32 motor is chucked in, still using the Cefiro loom, plugs, ECU etc. That's how mine was anyway, when my coilpacks went it got a bit tricky - just wired up 32 plug to engine loom, and used complete R32 coilpack setup,.

Edited by Nic_A31
<br />Series 1 Cefiro use a unique ignition loom (inc ignition module itself)<br /><br />Series 2 and 3 used the same loom as R32 Skylines.<br />You can buy both types of loom for the Cefiro new via Nissan.<br /><br />S1<br /><a href='http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18369&cat=&page=1' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://www.justjap.c...369&cat=&page=1</a><br />S2 onwards<br /><a href='http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17871&cat=&page=1' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://www.justjap.c...871&cat=&page=1</a><br /><br />I recall splitfire not having a listing that matched S1 Cefiro, so you'd need to get an R32 ignition module??, R32 loom, and coilpacks suit R32.<br />Quiet often, an R32 motor is chucked in, still using the Cefiro loom, plugs, ECU etc. That's how mine was anyway, when my coilpacks went it got a bit tricky - just wired up 32 plug to engine loom, and used complete R32 coilpack setup,.<br />

Car is a 1991 Nissan Cefiro Series 1 by the look of the lights and grill. Which came from the factory with Rb20det. Car has not received any mods apart from r34 smic, pod filter and now the new coilpacks and has not been tampered with in regards to Loom changes (by the look of things)

With what you've writen there nic, I just have to get an r32 ignition module, and plug then rewire the loom side to the r32 plug?? Coilpacks are new, but were fitted to an RB20 in a s13 with r32 loom.

Cheers :)

Edited by dewa32

1991 is Series 2, so that's weird.

Biggest give away. Is your AFM an R32 one (green label, J60) or square plug (purple label, N60)

And yes, get an R32 module and the plug for the engine loom side, and wire that into your engine loom. Essentially, ECU Loom->R32 Plug->R32 Ignition Module->R32 Subloom->R32 Coilpacks.

1991 is Series 2, so that's weird.

Biggest give away. Is your AFM an R32 one (green label, J60) or square plug (purple label, N60)

And yes, get an R32 module and the plug for the engine loom side, and wire that into your engine loom. Essentially, ECU Loom->R32 Plug->R32 Ignition Module->R32 Subloom->R32 Coilpacks.

true, well its got the series 1 gear, Also its a 'Special Edition' no idea what that means but could be the difference.

AFM is a purple label N60.

Will that need changing also or am i good just to replace loom and ignition module, as i already have subloom and coilpacks.

And do i need the whole loom or can i get away with splicing the r32 plug up to ceffy loom?

Thanks heaps Nic_A31 :)

Edited by dewa32

Afm plug is fine. N60 is a better Afm which the series 1 have.

Best bet would be a new coilpack loom. The heat makes them brittle and breakdown, so a new loom will definately help and be less probs down the track.

1991 is Series 2, so that's weird.

Biggest give away. Is your AFM an R32 one (green label, J60) or square plug (purple label, N60)

And yes, get an R32 module and the plug for the engine loom side, and wire that into your engine loom. Essentially, ECU Loom->R32 Plug->R32 Ignition Module->R32 Subloom->R32 Coilpacks.

hey mate, i have just got a new coilpack loom thats no problem. MY problem is wiring the loom side up to thing, Can a A31 ceffy loom be wire for wire spliced into r32 plug then into r32 module?

Sorry about all the questions but yeah stuff me why nissan made the silver top run on s13 / r31 coilpacks other than the normal silver top plugs :S

mate went colour to colour and when i tried to turn her on it cranks over but sits really low revs and sounds like its not firing properly, When i put the throttle down too it doesnt rev up or anything also. all wires have been colour matched and plugged into the r32 module. What the hell ? :S

firing order is out a little or major misfire (by what it sounds like) It didn't die in idle, and i also checked the ignitor pack for heat because i thought i got the wiring for it was wrong but it didnt get hot, and all wires are colour to colour :S

Do you still think it could be the ignitor pack?

That being said it was only on for abour 30-40 seconds

Edited by dewa32

Try again for 2 mins and try another module. Also check the ground wires

Had a look at the cefiro coilpack loom and the r32 loom, and found out they had different colours going to different coilpacks. Had to swap green and blue, and white and yellow and redid all the grounds and she turns over no problem... So weird, Even they were matched colour to colour, plug for plug, there was still differences in Coilpack Looms :S. Tsk tsk Nissan. Cheers for all the help Nic_A31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.
    • Nice, thanks. Thats why I was asking, there'd been a fair bit of discussion in the E90 world about vents and where it makes sense to put one (ie, over the filters is not great as that is inline or slightly behind the struts and in higher pressure area). I struggle with air flow and pressures. It sill weirds me out that a radiator in the boot can work. 
    • Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator  If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving  There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me  
    • Poor bleeding. That stupid damping loop in the plumbing that should be completely replaced with a braided hose. Just the first 2 that come to mind.
    • Forgive the potentially silly question but are the vents for bay temps? I've been toying with how to reduce my bay temps because man, it gets HOT in there and a small subtle vent somewhere I think might help. Or, maybe they're to assist with just the intake temps? 
×
×
  • Create New...