Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone , i've come to kinda a crossroad with my daily spec drifter thingy , as much as i love the lil rb20 for its unbreakable-ness im getting pretty sick of the severe lack of low down forward motive force.... so i've decided to either whack in a 25det or make it a 30det (just so you know this is kinda my spare car/daily/do while i'm building my other car) . My plan would be to use an average r33 25 head on a 160klm rb30 that's in my umm.. other daily/loaner with a ebay spec T67 and supporting mods . Now , my question is basically , is it worth the extra hassle to make the 25/30 over just whacking in the 25 for an aim of around 280-300rwk , being daily driven (because the n/a auto r31 bores me to sleep) , the rev range i drive in with the rb20 is under 5k 99% of the time so it's not really being thrashed so much. Any advice is appreciated . cheers

p.s i have searched but i haven't really found the answer/s i'm seeking , i'm not so much looking for a power comparo , more of a drivability comparo and/or advice :) cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354315-grenade/
Share on other sites

yeah cheers mate , i think i've pretty much talked myself into going 2530 combo , i have everything except injectors and the turbo itself. I didn't explain myself very well in the forst post sorry , part of my main worry is reliability, i suppose i'm kinda trying to cut corners and 'do it on the cheap' considering it's more of a side project while i'm saving up for my main project (rips bottom end , hopefully with a 26 head with an aim of around 400rwk hopefully reliably ). Do you guys think the bottom end is strong enough to hold around 280-300rwk with only a basic rebuild? or am i kidding myself?

edit: it only needs to live for 12 months :ph34r:

Edited by toffy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354315-grenade/#findComment-5677309
Share on other sites

Do it. Going from a 2L to a 3L there is a HUGE difference in drivability.

It's really not very hard and if you are sensible with the build and tuning, it should live a long, healthy life.

If you prep the bottom end before hand, then the whole conversion can be done in a weekend (I drove in on a Friday afternoon, had a concert Saturday night and then drove it home about 1am Monday morning).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354315-grenade/#findComment-5682183
Share on other sites

cheers guys , it's a goer by the looks of it , the laurel will be off the road as of this w/e. i won't have it done in one weekend though :blush: , gunna sell the 20 and box to fund injectors instead of going for the cheap n nasty std - high flowed :) . i'll post up a thread when i start :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354315-grenade/#findComment-5684712
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Bringing an old thread back to life Looking to put some new front shocks in the r33Gtst and the KYB still look ok for a road car. Unless there are any other options aroind that price $200 a shock?  I’d like to replace the strut tops also, is this the correct KYB no. For the strut top, KSM7124?  https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/kyb-strut-top-mount-ksm7124?srsltid=AfmBOoq-HDru8wSlLnQrhU9gCw_uYdKg8gUQzONY-EQOdnI5iXOWEUjY 341287 appears to be the front KYB shocks part no.  thanks all   
    • LandCruiser used to get a fluid flush every 12 to 18 months.   Only because it was about that often the electric motor on the master for brake assist kept dieing and needing to come off.
    • Best practice for any track day should be Bleed brake fluid, inspect rotors and pads maybe even flip pads if they are prone to tapering.  Quality pad (project mu, endless, hawk, winmax, ap), Good high carbon content rotor (dba4000/5000, Ap, projectmu), Quality fluid, Good air supply over the rotor and caliper are all required for best performance at a track day no matter the car.  Even the bedding in of the pad and rotor is key to longevity. I've seen so many rotors destroyed on their first track day due to it. 
    • The hardcore tracks1ut guys I know would flush their brake fluid every 6 to 12 months depending on the amount of track work they did. Unlike most of us SAU guys, probably flush it once a decade 🥲
×
×
  • Create New...