Jump to content
SAU Community

Lowering An R34

Bizkit

By Bizkit,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

  

22 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Bizkit Contributor

Bizkit

Posted
Posted

Hi guys. I'm really contemplating on whether or not I should lower my R34 Gt-t.

They definitely look alot better when lowered a couple of inches, however the pain of having to drive extra slow or even avoiding speed bumps alltogether doesn't sit well with me. I like that I can drive just about anywhere and don't have to worry about small curbs in car parks etc.

I bought my car stock standard. The front bumper has no scratches/dents/scrapes on it which I'm really pleased with and hope to keep it that way. However one thing I don't like is the visible muffler that can be seen due to my car being a few inches higher.

I know its a weird question but what are your guy's opinions? Do you find your front bumper gets wrecked easily with a lowered car?

Here's a pic of my car, does it look ok as is? Should I lower it?

PA050028.jpg

PA050024.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354333-lowering-an-r34/
Share on other sites
Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted

lol @ the voting.... that made my day, lower your car by about 30-40mm, that suits the r34 alot, my mate dropped his car on d2 or d4 coilovers, and the ass is so low, even on the highest settings, that this car scrapes everywhere. the front is a good height though and doesnt hit or scrape on anything.

as long as you get a nice setup with springs and shocks or coilovers and get it all aligned and adjusted properly, you wont have any problems....... except for the usual cop stopping you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354333-lowering-an-r34/#findComment-5676430
Share on other sites
SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

preferably you want a little rake from front to back, like maybe 10mm? so the back is a touch higher than the front.

if you're planning on changing rims, factor that in to your suspension choice.

ideally you DON'T just change springs as the standard shocks most likely are not up to the job if you want a proper handling car. Either do both springs/shocks or coilovers or don't do it.

i ran Whiteline springs and Bilstein shocks in my last GTT and they were fantastic. I believe there are some decent coilover options around now, but they'll just be decent, not fantastic as there are quite a few entry level options.

You get use to being careful with the front bumper. I had about 8cm's clearance on the front of my GT-T and still managed to not destroy the front lip, just take a bit more care and angle angle angle.

SWAYBARS FIRST though!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354333-lowering-an-r34/#findComment-5684184
Share on other sites
Darmanin10 Mentor

Darmanin10

Posted
Posted (edited)

preferably you want a little rake from front to back, like maybe 10mm? so the back is a touch higher than the front.

if you're planning on changing rims, factor that in to your suspension choice.

ideally you DON'T just change springs as the standard shocks most likely are not up to the job if you want a proper handling car. Either do both springs/shocks or coilovers or don't do it.

i ran Whiteline springs and Bilstein shocks in my last GTT and they were fantastic. I believe there are some decent coilover options around now, but they'll just be decent, not fantastic as there are quite a few entry level options.

You get use to being careful with the front bumper. I had about 8cm's clearance on the front of my GT-T and still managed to not destroy the front lip, just take a bit more care and angle angle angle.

SWAYBARS FIRST though!

hey ur the guy who had that sweet black GTT for sale......... is that ur new car, it looks awsome, can u please send me a link to some pics :thumbsup:

EDIT: oh and definitly lower it :thumbsup:

Edited by ML73ZR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354333-lowering-an-r34/#findComment-5684776
Share on other sites
Mayuri Krab Grand Master

Mayuri Krab

Posted
Posted

Where is the "no" option?

I'm going to go agasint the flow & say that if you are using it as a daily car that gets driven to a lot of sh*t places (with crap roads, massive speed bumps etc etc like me) then I would keep it @ stock height.

Even my own driveway is on a stupid downward angle & my stock height car just manages to clear it without scraping the underside.

*puts flame suit on* :ph34r:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354333-lowering-an-r34/#findComment-5684817
Share on other sites
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

just don't lower it to the point that your front right tire rubs on the plastic inner. why you ask? because the main wiring loom is just under it and when you rub through it your whole wiring loom catchs fire. just a little hint for ya!!!!!

actually it doesn't catch fire, but your wipers and headlights may come on whenever you corner right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354333-lowering-an-r34/#findComment-5689708
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean I can be OCD'y but this is really over the top. At that point why not just run a full wideband fuel controller? Especially if you run 3 widebands. The system works pretty well, which is trimming low load stuff to be within a few percent of the base map. Pre-engine _change_ the base map was only 1-2% off, depending on ambient temp, elevation, etc. Under load the LS is really very straightforward to tune, enough that a wideband closed loop would be overkill. If I really cared (and I hope I don't) I can always just go back to the MAF system the car actually came with. Which does all those nice calculations for me (temp, altitude, etc), now that you can buy 102mm MAF's that do not cause restrictions.
    • Pac
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Pac · Posted

      Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
×
×
  • Create New...