Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale:

2003 Nissan Skyline V35 Coupe

Manual

White pearl

Premium edition

88,000 kms

Located in western suburbs of Melbourne.

Mods:

- 20" WORK wheels.

- BC Racing coilovers

- Fujitsubo cat back exhaust

- Fujita F5 intake.

- Motordyne Plenum spacer.

- Impul ECU (with speed limiter removed).

- 2006 model headlights with factory HID setup (huge improvement over the 2003 - 2005 model lights).

- Nismo 280 km/ph instrument cluster.

- Quality alarm, professionally installed.

- Trip computer has been converted into English.

- Aftermarket DIGITAL TV tuner has been fitted, allowing you to watch Australian digital TV channels using the factory screen.

- Rare factory option MOMO steering wheel.

- iPod / iPhone connector for both video and audio.

- Chrome door handles.

- Clear indicators.

- De-badged rear.

- Custom plates

- Brembo brakes

The car also has all the usual premium edition features, including leather interior, tv screen, BOSE stereo and dual zone climate control.

No accident history.

6 months rego.

Brand new clutch (fitted today).

Additional pictures and information available.

$28,500 including RWC

I'm happy to negotiate on price for a quick and easy sale, e.g., if a RWC is not required.

Contact me here or email to [email protected]

Thanks.

post-48748-0-35834900-1298032681_thumb.jpg

post-48748-0-66281500-1298032685_thumb.jpg

post-48748-0-57150900-1298032689_thumb.jpg

post-48748-0-65287600-1298032693_thumb.jpg

post-48748-0-68952600-1298032697_thumb.jpg

post-48748-0-31026700-1298032702_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354414-fs-v35-coupe/
Share on other sites

I forgot to add that i will throw in some spare parts if the buyer wants them.

I have an Ogura Racing (ORC) clutch and lightweight flywheel, cost me over $1400.

I also have the factory intake and airbox setup, another grill (chrome), and possibly some other stuff, need to go through the shed properly.

Here are some older pictures, of when the coilovers first went in:

coiloversin.JPG

coiloversin3.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354414-fs-v35-coupe/#findComment-5680795
Share on other sites

Had a few people call but no one come to see the car yet.

Would like to sell it within the next few weeks if possible.

Forgot to mention that I imported this myself a couple of years ago. At the time it was very hard to find a white manual premium edition in good nick.. they cost much more than cars in silver or automatic.

Also many of the V35s in australia were imported by dealers who get the cheapest cars and wind back the ks.. I can provide you with a copy of the auction sheet and other import papers to prove that its not the case for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354414-fs-v35-coupe/#findComment-5686107
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...