Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a mate who has an r34 GTT 4 door auto with Traction Control. He has asked me to fit a highmount turbo and greddy plenum and fab his intercooler piping. He has already purchased a greddy plenum, but was told from a shop he was going to goto the you can't retain the traction control with a forward facing plenum. I had a quick look at his car today, and saw how big the throttle body / tc unit is, so I can understand why it won't fit, but I was thinking, maybe you could just cut the TC part of the throttle body out, and if I have to, weld a 2.5" hose tail to one side if there isnt enough room, and extend the wires, and fit the traction control butterfly in the inner guard or something?

If he can't keep the TC he doesn't want to fit the plenum, but I really want to put it on, as I hate the clutter of factory plenums. Has anyone ever toyed with this idea? Anything you can see going wrong with it?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354591-r34-traction-control-mods/
Share on other sites

He won't do it if it gets rid of tc? Lol wut. Every person I know with r34 tc drives with it off. All the time.

Tell him to make his foot the traction control. Ie don't flat foot it in the wet and you won't need traction contol.

The reason that it would remove the tc is that the tc backs off the revs and won't let the car go. If you change the throttle body with a different one it won't work

Yeah I know exactly what your saying.. But he wants it, and it's not my car, so I cant tell him what to do. But not sure if you understand what I'm saying. The throttle body and TC unit is one piece, with two butterflies, and the TC has a control unit with motor... and I'm thinking of cutting it in half, so the TC unit is alone with its butterfly, control unit and motor, and plumb it into the cooler pipes in the inner guard, and just want to know if it will still effectively work.

Well tell him to go and pay someone else to do the work.

Obviously you are doing @ cheaper - gotta be harsh sometimes to people who don't think, you're doing him a favour as with a bigher turbo there is NO promise that TC will work correctly and not have an absolute fit 99% of the time as more power/less traction - and a bit of wheelspin will actually make it faster than TC totally shutting down the car

Yeah I know exactly what your saying.. But he wants it, and it's not my car, so I cant tell him what to do. But not sure if you understand what I'm saying. The throttle body and TC unit is one piece, with two butterflies, and the TC has a control unit with motor... and I'm thinking of cutting it in half, so the TC unit is alone with its butterfly, control unit and motor, and plumb it into the cooler pipes in the inner guard, and just want to know if it will still effectively work.

Your theory sounds good, put it into practice and let us know how you go :)

The OP suggestion will work in theory.

Also, I believe it was urtwhistle, modified his TC butterfly (shaved it down so that when it closed, it wouldn't fully close the opening) to allow a bit more power through when it kicked in, allows him to chirp 2nd pretty well now with TC enabled, instead of completely dying in the ass.

  • 2 years later...

Bit of a thread mine, but thought I'd add to this rather than create a new thread.

When the traction control is engaged, does it do anything with the engine management (pull timing etc) or just close the butterfly?

Has anyone drilled some holes in the butterfly or modified it to make the effects less noticeable but still retain some traction? I like the idea of it, but the effects are a bit harsh

I wouldnt bother.

When i got my car imported two years ago, it was kicking sideways with traction control ON. Of course they took all the parts off it when they complied it -.- , but still, TC will be next to useless with anything close to 200 kw atw.

Really you guys are telling fibs

My car with 350 at the wheels still has TC.

I love having TC on when i dont want to die in the wet....

It works...not as well as stock...but it works.....

My car has plenty of power and the TC removed, no issues driving in the wet...

Yeh I have this handy thing attached to my leg, right at the bottom there. Useful little thing commonly referred to as a 'foot'. The right one is pretty effective for keeping me alive, when it's wet I simply choose to not be an idiot.

TC can suck it.

  • Like 1

Yeh I have this handy thing attached to my leg, right at the bottom there. Useful little thing commonly referred to as a 'foot'. The right one is pretty effective for keeping me alive, when it's wet I simply choose to not be an idiot.

TC can suck it.

Haha :P

  • 1 year later...

You might find that the engine will go into limp mode shutting down the injectors with the sensor missing. Just had this problem with mine. Had to use stager with deleted TC. Also you can remove the butterfly from the TC as I had done prior to fitting my greeddy manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
×
×
  • Create New...