Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have a brand new Garrett GT30, 500HP turbo.

As with all GT30 its T3 flange ballbearing turbo.

Has the 0.63 AR exhaust housing (very hard to find) , 4" inlet bellmouth, oil and water cooling.

Chose this turbo for a project car thats not going ahead. Exact same turbo on the RPM performance CA18DET powered 180sx that was all over zoom last year made 412RWHP, spoke to Tim Possingham from RPM who advised full boost around 4200RPM on his CA (less on an SR/RB etc...)

Heres the exact specs;

0.63 Turbine Housing (4 bolt outlet)

0.70a/r Compressor Housing

Watercooler Centre

56 Trim Compressor Wheel (T04S)

55 lbs/min Comp Flow Max.

84 Trim Turbine Wheel

External Wastegate

As topic says, its brand new wrapped in plastic with reciept. NOW ASKING $2000 FIRM. (retail is $2960)

In perth, can ship at buyers expense.

Daniel Konig

[email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35473-fsbrand-new-gt30/
Share on other sites

?? Yes this is the same turbo, why the thread post?

If your referring to the query about not being able to make 420RWHP out of one, the turbo was bought on reccomendation of Tim Possingham of GCG turbochargers that put one on the RPM performance centre CA18 180sx that was all over zoom/fast 4's last year.

Identical turbo, 1.8l engine 412RWHP.

2 R33 GTSt's with this turbo but the 0.86AR rear putting down over 420RWHP in perth.

Daniel Konig

[email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35473-fsbrand-new-gt30/#findComment-708502
Share on other sites

?? Yes this is the same turbo, why the thread post?

saves having to re-type everything that was said a few weeks ago.

hence why i put the link to the last time you posted this turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35473-fsbrand-new-gt30/#findComment-713417
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...