Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just bought a nismo autech rear wing to find it has different mount positions . Has anyone installed one before or know how to go about it ?

Perhaps try Ruby, he has a "Nismo" stag.

its says nismo and autech here is the link on ebay , http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-STAGEA-AUTECH-260RS-REAR-WING-SPOILER-NISMO-/230468182057?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35a8f96029 i spoke to the guy who made it and its an exact copy ,Tell me what u think. The mounts are exactly above the bolts of the hatch.

theres legit noway to mount this kinda shit without glue of some sort... theres NO room at all... remove the trimming from the rear window n c the little hole... its hard enough getting the old one off!

Here a pic of the wing on the car

IMG_1442.jpg

Pic of the hole's i put in the hatch used all three of the mounting pionts and double sided tape. Some how with the air flow over it i don't trust just glue or tape alone but that's just me :).

IMG_1436.jpg

and this is the factory hole's i'ved tape them up for now trying to get the factory covers for them

IMG_1439.jpg

The mark are from the factory spoiler and the tape thay used.

Cheers

Yup in the last photo the tape covers up the factory mounting holes from where the the spoiler was. Getting them from japan for $30 bux each will get a photo when there on the car.

also getting some rubber gromets to cover the holes inside the hatch.

Cheers

  • 3 months later...

Yup in the last photo the tape covers up the factory mounting holes from where the the spoiler was. Getting them from japan for $30 bux each will get a photo when there on the car.

also getting some rubber gromets to cover the holes inside the hatch.

Cheers

Any progress with the paint job

ouch - for what it's worth i'd be putting the stock wing back on. the holes look nasty.

does anyone know if the holes between the S2 stock wing and the S2 Dayz wing match up? i wouldnt mind replacing my dayz wing with a stocker - a bit cleaner, a bit less 'look at me'.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...