Max Power For Rb26 Block

[tricstar]

as title states whats the max power for the standard 26 block, is there a ruff figure or is it one of those, how long is a piece of string. It has a HKS stroker crank so harmonics at high rpm shouldn't be too bad, putting 710awhp at hubs so maybe 800ish at the fly. reason I ask is I'm looking at a freshn-up -rebuild and wondering if I need to factor an N1 into the equation..

while I'm at it, car has 1000cc injectors and 1000hp fuel system in the boot, but still running standard hard lines between, are they going to flow enough for that system and that power especially with continued WOT around the track, hense the rebuild, just trying to work out how we got piston damage --dentonation due to bad fuel or tune, or leaning out due to restricted flow? no problems on dyno with flow just wondering if real world and continued WOT might be different.

[zebra]

Personally I feel that the standard 5/16" fuel line is too small for that power, I would be running either 2 3/8" feeds (if you have a twin entry rail) or a single 1/2" and a 5/8" return.

[tricstar]

Personally I feel that the standard 5/16" fuel line is too small for that power, I would be running either 2 3/8" feeds (if you have a twin entry rail) or a single 1/2" and a 5/8" return.

yeah it is twin entry HKS 11mm rail and HKS 1000 injectors

[TiTAN]

twin pumps feeding the surge tank and twin pumps out of the surge tank?

[tricstar]

twin pumps feeding the surge tank and twin pumps out of the surge tank?

not sure, I bought this car off SLY33 who started the RB26 dyno thread, its a full "magnaflow" system with one 525pro out, can't see whats in the tank.. it was all done by Nisspeed, and he does quite a few big power motors, the system was built to handle 1000hp ??

[TiTAN]

what im getting at is that a lot of surge tank setups are built with ample fuel supply from the surge tank to the engine. but when you stick it on a track that has long stretches of sustained WOT (without a large enough lift pump) you can run out of fuel in the surge tank itself and lose fuel pressure

[tricstar]

what im getting at is that a lot of surge tank setups are built with ample fuel supply from the surge tank to the engine. but when you stick it on a track that has long stretches of sustained WOT (without a large enough lift pump) you can run out of fuel in the surge tank itself and lose fuel pressure

ok got ya, so I'll check what lift pumps I have, do I need the lift pump/s to, equal or more flow than the pump from surge tank to engine?

also, what about the standard block question, anyone, or is it just not an issue and people have no issues putting decent power through the standard block??

[Nee-san]

Depends on a lot of things mate, how hard are you revving it, Have you increased bore in rebuild etc etc ?

[tricstar]

Depends on a lot of things mate, how hard are you revving it, Have you increased bore in rebuild etc etc ?

It would definately be getting a bore this time due to some marking of the cylinder from damaged ring land, and rev limit set at 8500rpm but see's that regularly, might consider taking that a bit higher as crank is good for at least 9k

[Beer Baron]

there is no problem using a standard block with that power. if there's nothing wrong with it that a bore won't cure then don't replace it. but question. what size was the bore taken to last time? if it has a stroker crank I'm assuming it had forged pistons. they were most like one size over (86.5) or even 2 sizes over (87mm). if so then boring to 87.5mm is not a good idea for a big power engine. ideally you want to stick with 86mm or 86.5mm.

N1 block is a good idea but I wouldn't rush to buy one if you are not having block problems so far. on the other hand if you need to buy a brand new block (due to this one having already been over-bored) then I'd go straight for the N1.

[tricstar]

there is no problem using a standard block with that power. if there's nothing wrong with it that a bore won't cure then don't replace it. but question. what size was the bore taken to last time? if it has a stroker crank I'm assuming it had forged pistons. they were most like one size over (86.5) or even 2 sizes over (87mm). if so then boring to 87.5mm is not a good idea for a big power engine. ideally you want to stick with 86mm or 86.5mm.

N1 block is a good idea but I wouldn't rush to buy one if you are not having block problems so far. on the other hand if you need to buy a brand new block (due to this one having already been over-bored) then I'd go straight for the N1.

thanks Baron thats the kind of pearl I was after

[Beer Baron]

another option. if you have a good block (bore wise) but worried about strength look at the Platinum racing PREC. they are made as a block brace mainly to suit RB30 blocks fitted with RB26 sumps but they also do an RB26 version which purely acts as a block brace. it strengthens the girdle but retains the standard mains. it also attaches to the girdle with it's own fasteners (not re-using the factory mains) so you basically end up with the strength 4 bolt mains. it also adds torsional rigidity to the block which will stop them cracking between 3 and 4 as they are a bit prone to do. cost from memory is around $1200 so it's a lot cheaper than buying an N1 block and possibly much stronger. hi-octane retail them, or otherwise contact envy imports who designed them.

[tricstar]

another option. if you have a good block (bore wise) but worried about strength look at the Platinum racing PREC. they are made as a block brace mainly to suit RB30 blocks fitted with RB26 sumps but they also do an RB26 version which purely acts as a block brace. it strengthens the girdle but retains the standard mains. it also attaches to the girdle with it's own fasteners (not re-using the factory mains) so you basically end up with the strength 4 bolt mains. it also adds torsional rigidity to the block which will stop them cracking between 3 and 4 as they are a bit prone to do. cost from memory is around $1200 so it's a lot cheaper than buying an N1 block and possibly much stronger. hi-octane retail them, or otherwise contact envy imports who designed them.

another good option, if I go with the standard block, that would be good insurance

cheers

[bigmikespec]

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_88&products_id=1337

So does this work with the OEM girdle?

[zebra]

Does look like its designed to replace the factory main caps

[bigmikespec]

Mr Baron made it sound like it did not... "it strengthens the girdle but retains the standard mains"

[tricstar]

wow thats at least hlaf the cost of an entire N1 block ?? aren't there other improvements to be had with the N1 block--oil gallerys etc

and will this increase the height of the block, giving similar issues as the 30/26 with bonnet and crossmember clearances ??

[Beer Baron]

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_88&products_id=1337

So does this work with the OEM girdle?

yep works with factory girdle. so does the 30 block/26 sump version. it acts as the sump adapter and block strengthener in one thing. I have seen other guys go to billet mains and chuck out the stock girdle which is a backwards step in my eyes. I saw an engine recently pulled down (a 30/26) with custom mains and girdle with a brack kind of like the PREC but it had bad bearing wear from crank walk.

how this one works is the factory girdle gets a flat surface machined into it (any competent machinist can do it). the girdle is still proud of the block (obviously) and you are mounting the PREC to the block factory sump bolts, and then it also bolts to the factory girdle (but not interfering with the factory main bolts). the 26 sump then bolts to the PREC and from memory you have a few bolts that go through both sump and PREC for more strength. it's a nice piece of gear.

Does look like its designed to replace the factory main caps

nope, as above it works WITH factory main caps and girdle. just with a flat surface machined onto the bottom of the girdle for the PREC to mate with.

if you want to buy one direct contact herman @ envy imports (they are Platinum Racing products).

if anyone's really interested I have the instruction manual here somewhere I can email you. it explains how to fit one and thereby explains how it works. the extra width gives you a bit more sump oil too (need to consider spacing or lengthening oil pick-up a little if no sump baffles etc are fitted - many just go external pick-up anyway though).

[Beer Baron]

wow thats at least hlaf the cost of an entire N1 block ?? aren't there other improvements to be had with the N1 block--oil gallerys etc

and will this increase the height of the block, giving similar issues as the 30/26 with bonnet and crossmember clearances ??

does not increase block height at all (engine mounts fit to block not sump so engine is still exactly mounted the same). but DOES lower sump a little (very small amount - 20mm or less from memory, basically just the thickness of the PREC).

yeah they are a great way to get some block strength for a big power 26 or 26/30 without having to pay for N1 block or the other option till now as grout fill the block (not practical for a road car or circuit car, really for drag only).

even better if you are going to a 26/30 as in that case you need to spend $800-$1000 on a sump adapter anyway. spending a little more on one of these and it does the sump adapter job as well as more strength.

[tricstar]

does not increase block height at all (engine mounts fit to block not sump so engine is still exactly mounted the same). but DOES lower sump a little (very small amount - 20mm or less from memory, basically just the thickness of the PREC).

yeah they are a great way to get some block strength for a big power 26 or 26/30 without having to pay for N1 block or the other option till now as grout fill the block (not practical for a road car or circuit car, really for drag only).

even better if you are going to a 26/30 as in that case you need to spend $800-$1000 on a sump adapter anyway. spending a little more on one of these and it does the sump adapter job as well as more strength.

am I right that the same PREC can be used for strenghtening the 26 and or adapting the 30 block and 26 sump, as I may go 26/30 road down the track, or are they two completely different plates