Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was having a conversation with a workmate today (he worked for nissan dealer servicing for 15yrs apparently), we start an innocent convo about the impounded datsun 1600 sitting out in our yard. He says now thats a classic car, which i agree with then say "and it has a nice FJ conversion" (which it did) which he didnt agree with, saying the "CA20" is the best engine in the world....long story short the discussion turns to, what the RB25DET engine name stands for....i told him RB = Race Bred 25 = 2.5 litre capacity D = double over head cam E = electronic fuel injection T = single turbocharger....he disputed all of my claims and said all the titles stand for the symmetry and ratios of the engine or something...what do all these engine names stand for -- RB, SR, FJ and CA.....lastly.. *cant stop laughing*.. he claims that the RB30ET from the VL calais turbo was a holdens idea, apparently they engineered the turbocharging of the engine and the japs had nothing to do with it....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354985-rb-sr-fj-ca-etc-engine-names/
Share on other sites

I don't think anyone knows what the SR, RB, U (points for anyone who knows what those are. Without looking it up on google) stand for, if they do indeed stand for anything, but the D, E, T do stand for Dual camshaft, electronic ignition and turbocharging.

As for the RB30ET being an australian developed engine (developed in the term of, holden throwing the turbo onto it), I wouldn't say that that's out of the question tbh. But i don't know either way who did it. go research.

I don't think anyone knows what the SR, RB, U (points for anyone who knows what those are. Without looking it up on google)

Yup!

Had one sitting in an unrestored 2000 Sports for a couple of years before I eventually sold the car (whilever one owns a rally car, a full ground up restoration on an antique Jap sports car is just NOT going to happen). Think I might still have the workshop manual here. 46mm inlet valves and twin Solexes - mmmmm emissions goodness :thumbsup:

Almost as rare as the S20 these days

RB = Race bred - I don't think so, tim

CA20's were fitted to S2 Blueys and weren't that good in stock form (I don't think they have a lot of potential either)

I think that th eiron block, twin cam layout between CA18 and RB26 is about as far as the family resemblance goes.

D = double overhead camshaft

E = Electronic FUEL INJECTION (not ignition!)

T = Turbocharged

The number is displacement rounded to the first 2 digits.

The letter prefix simply refers to the family of engines. Ignore it, and what you think it stands for, Nissan engineers probably got a 5 year old to point to 2 letters in the alphabet and went with it for good luck. Insert a myriad of other explanations for it, we aren't going to resolve what has been debated for years within the confines of this thread. In the end, who cares?

Was there anything JDM that used the RB30ET? If not I'd say it was completely Holden's doing. They did buy the rights to the RB30 from Nissan AFAWK.

D = double overhead camshaft

E = Electronic FUEL INJECTION (not ignition!)

T = Turbocharged

The number is displacement rounded to the first 2 digits.

The letter prefix simply refers to the family of engines. Ignore it, and what you think it stands for, Nissan engineers probably got a 5 year old to point to 2 letters in the alphabet and went with it for good luck. Insert a myriad of other explanations for it, we aren't going to resolve what has been debated for years within the confines of this thread. In the end, who cares?

Was there anything JDM that used the RB30ET? If not I'd say it was completely Holden's doing. They did buy the rights to the RB30 from Nissan AFAWK.

RB30 was export only in passenger cars...I think it was on used in the Patrol's in Japan, but thats it

RB stands for Runs Bearings and SR stands for Shits Rockers, lol

the design of the CA is very similar to a RB with 2 pots cut off, but not exactly spot on, and certainly not a RB26. rb20 maybe.

from what i am aware, the RB30ET was a holden design.. sort of. nissan designed the engine (holden used it because of new emissions laws being introduced and getting the old 202 up to standard wasn't worth it, in a similar way that nissan scrapped the RB and SR at the end of the 90's/early 00's), holden did the turboing.

  • Nope 1

the CA from my understanding is basicly that a CA18 is a RB26 with two cylinders cut off

You are most probably correct in saying this. CA18DET motors are Nissan's strongest rated factory motor horsepower-wise. Basically, out of any performance Nissan motor, they can produce the most horsepower without being re-built, somewhere around the 600rwhp figure, and part of this is due to fact that the CA18DET is a cast-iron block, while the SR20DET is an alloy block like that of the RB-series.

  • Nope 1

As a professional code breaker in the internet. Here is what I think the first 2 letters mean.

1st letter = Indicates orientation of cylinder in the block, R/C/L/S, etc = inline, V= v configuration. Observe: RB20DET and VG30DETT

2nd letter = Indicates generation of the block, B/A/R/Q, etc. Newest generation of engines are designated to Q's! VQ38DETT!

I don't know.............

You are most probably correct in saying this. CA18DET motors are Nissan's strongest rated factory motor horsepower-wise. Basically, out of any performance Nissan motor, they can produce the most horsepower without being re-built, somewhere around the 600rwhp figure, and part of this is due to fact that the CA18DET is a cast-iron block, while the SR20DET is an alloy block like that of the RB-series.

Ummm dude RB's are all cast iron blocks.

don't forget the ca18i, the most awesome engine ever produced by nissan. So awesome it doesn't follow the naming convention or need the twin plug stupidity of the ca20. It's bottom end is factory rates to 600ps but Nissan didn't want to unleash such an engine on the unsuspecting public so limited the power to 80ps with it's sohc rocker snapping awesome sauce head.

D = double overhead camshaft

E = Electronic FUEL INJECTION (not ignition!)

T = Turbocharged

The number is displacement rounded to the first 2 digits.

The letter prefix simply refers to the family of engines. Ignore it, and what you think it stands for, Nissan engineers probably got a 5 year old to point to 2 letters in the alphabet and went with it for good luck. Insert a myriad of other explanations for it, we aren't going to resolve what has been debated for years within the confines of this thread. In the end, who cares?

Was there anything JDM that used the RB30ET? If not I'd say it was completely Holden's doing. They did buy the rights to the RB30 from Nissan AFAWK.

i know that JUN Auto from japan had turbo'd the RB30E before holden, so maybe thats where they got the idea...

Ummm dude RB's are all cast iron blocks.

exactly right. the rb are an alloy head, but still a cast iron block.

also the CA isn't a RB26 with 2 pots cut off. they are a similar design to the RB engine, but aren't simply a 4 cylinder version of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
×
×
  • Create New...