Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

A mate of mine just purchased an r32 4 door GTST. Its got 409RWHP so it has a pretty heavy clutch in it, and it does feel rather heavy to the foot. It also has a nismo slave cylinder.

Now the problem is, after driving about 1500km over a few weeks of owning the car, the clutch all of a sudden went spongy and stopped working, so he had a look and the rod the comes out of the back of the master cylinder and connects to the clutch pedal, via a little u-shape bracket that is threaded onto the rod for adjustment, is actyally bent! The rod is bent where the thread is, and the u-shape bracket is bent too. So he got another one off a mates car, and after driving to Brisbane from Mackay, around 1000km in one day, the clutch did the same thing again, although obviously there wasn't much use of the clutch being on the highway... So anyways, i think its kind of wierd, and just wondering if any of you guys have ever come across a problem of bending master cylinders due to a heavy clutch, or whether there maybe something else wrong in there....

Opinions?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355094-master-cylinder-rod-keeps-bending/
Share on other sites

cheers mate. I did tell him to pull the pedal box out and tack weld it together when the master was out, because I had snapped one before, and Im pretty sure the nismo ones are just tacked with a mig instead of spot welding. He said he looked at it and it looked fine, but your probably right. Something has had to have happened. I have never heard of these just breaking.

actually they commonly break. the spot welds tear out.

nismo even have a nismo-fied one where they added a couple of extra welds to a factory pedal and charge triple the price :D

They're only like $110 are they?

Why do people run heavy clutches? Id rather blow a clutch than rebuild a gearbox...

Look for a new clutch, like an OS twin. Previous owner of my car had some crap heavy single installed, then it popped the clutch box as mentioned. When my motor came out, i threw in the OS twin and its no heavier than a std clutch id say

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...