Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A week ago i was driving on the highway car was running beautiful and then it made a small backfire noise started missing and then died when my foot hit the clutch.

I towed it home and now it won't start.

I have put another cas sensor on it and same story.

I have since checked.

Timing and it was all good.

Spark and coils working fine.

Pulled plug off injectors and checked with multimeter which showed no volts and then 10 when it pulsed. Not sure if that is ok.

Fuel rail is pressurizing and the pump is priming.

Battery shows 12.4 volts but engine is turning over slowly.

Could it not be starting due to not cranking fast enough.

Please help it's killing me not knowing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355165-another-gtr-not-starting/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

No it should still fire regardless of whether the cooler pipes are on, might just need some throttle as the un-metered air makes is screwy. Unplug both AFM's and try again, this will put it into a limp home mode which makes the AFR's a bit better for starting.

First point of call if you running a standard ECU is to put it into diags and look for fault codes. Takes so much guess work away from something like this. If you haven't already done this then please try that next.

After that I would do this:

1. Pull fuel line going to rail and check fuel comes out with the first 10 sec prime with ACC on.

2. Pull coil and spark out of no1

3. Pull fuel pump relay out after testing rail pressure

4. Switch IGN to ON

5. Remove CAS and spin it over by hand the direction of the motor (Clockwise with the CAS facing it's orginal position)

6. Verify coil no1 you pulled out earlier sparks (Insure spark is grounding on cylinder head properly)

7. Verify you can hear the injectors ticking, should be quite noticeable without the noise of the motor cranking

See how you go.

Have you got compression?

Injectors should have constant 12V on one pin, the other pin gets switched to earth by the ECU.

There should be a tutorial on how to get diagnostics.

(And how do you check timing if the engine won't run?)

it could be from the piping as said, my r33 had the same proplem it back fired a little then shut off, it still started everytime it clonked out. the intercoller pipe was out leading from the manifold

If ur handy with auto electrics at all. Try running a wire from the positive on the battery to the injector positive(make sure its the positive, should be the same colour wire on all injectors) U only have to connect to 1 of the injector positive wires as there all connected to 1 source. See if ur car starts now. If it does then there might be a break in ur wiring loom somewhere or the ecu injector drive might be fried.

All motors just need three things - air, fuel & spark.

On my Autronic, if the computer doesn't get at least 12.5v then it will not start even if it will crank over. Be sure to charge up the battery to be sure the ECU is getting full voltage.

By the way you said it stopped sounds like fuel or spark to me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thats the current state of the reo. Bit ew, but GTR Reo and supporting bars are $2000, and 2nd hand GTT ones are $1000... More engine disassembly. The good news is   Various LS weird sounds are apparently normal Everything coming out is in perfect condition The bad news is: Everything coming out is in perfect condition It looks like whoever assembled this engine ~25,000km ago was telling the truth with what's in it and how they did it. Even things I was unsure of like the timing chain - But it's a brand new double row timing chain, spaced perfectly. They even cut up the stock windage tray to keep it instead of being lazy and to work with the baffle. Cam, Heads, springs, LS7 lifters, Pushrods - All look new and have obviously been working perfectly. In other news, we removed the pineapples that were loaded below the superpro subframe bushes. They look a fair bit munted and have deformed the poly bushes that are 'above' them. I'm telling myself that now that there's space 'under' the bush between the little cup that bolts in... that having a pineapple wedged there was bad and basically made the rear end solid. The pineapple and the superpro bush are ... equally deformed (i.e they have deformed one another from being smashed together). We'll see how it goes with bushes only. I am sure this cope will fail and the answer will be to drop the subframe and put nismo rubber bushes in there instead. $400 worth of gaskets and ARP head bolts to replace perfectly new looking gaskets that absolutely weren't leaking  and were installed perfectly with great care - because god damnit.    
    • Why bother? Keep them under 1bar and be happy, I had it for 10 years and never had an issue. once you go beyond that the budget blows out fast and then keeps on blowing out 
    • I'd still recommend rebuilding the turbos too. That will eat up a lot of the budget especially if you aren't willing to put in the labor to R&R the turbos yourself but it's a huge risk to ignore it at this point.
    • Can't help it, its an illness. 
    • Yep, agree with all of the above added on too. I just love the age old "what boost were you running?" Question without getting any other surrounding data. IE, may have ran 20psi, and lived for 12 years, but it was an 80 year old granma driving it to Bingo once a week and never took it over 2500rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...