Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

UPDATE.

It started last night with new ecu and a fully charged battery. But it took a while and a bit of gas and died of I didn't keep the revs up. Have a timing light and gonna check that tonight and also go right over the cooler piping again just incase I missed a vacuum leak.

Thanks everyone for your help so far

hi DVS i have just tested the car again a small amount of white smoke came out. i then tested with out the afms and run the same. checked my codes in the ecu and got 12 which is afm im guessing cause i unplugged them and also 21 which was ignition signal. any idea wat would cause it to throw that code.

Try and get a noid light or led test light to make sure the injectors are firing.

Did u fix the power feed to the injectors?

Is the fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail getting hard when the pump is priming?

Try and restrict the return line from the rail to the fuel tank by squeezing it closed with soft pliers ie turtle jaws (plastic pliers).

Were u driving when the car stopped or it just wouldnt start?

Does it have fuel?

Does it definately have spark?

put noid light in number one injector and started light was coming on. i fixed the power feed with a new ecu. guessing injector drive was fried like you suggested. fuel line is getting hard. i was driving when it stopped was on the highway and it started misfiring and then died when i hit the clutch. definetly has spark tested every coil and plug. definetly has fuel aswell. thanks for all your help DVS i would be stuffed without ya.

No worries man.

Just to be sure take the Fuel line off the rail and put it into a clear bottle then prime the pump so u can get a sample of the fuel, who knows it Might be full of water from a servo, if the fuel is ok and not contaminated put the line back on the rail and tighten.

Ok so u now have spark and fuel, chexk the timing of the cam belt and crank angle sensor thoroughly then its time for a compression and leak down test.

Interesting!

Have you tried a different ignitor?

Got to think If the car was runing and it backfired there a few things that cause that?

Excessie heat? (to lean)

Ping?

Unburnt fuel in the bore? (no spark in a cylinder)

Detanation?

From what you are saying it sounds ignition related tho

I will try and hunt down a different ignitor and test that. Not sure about it leaning out usually end up with black shit all over the back of my car after driving it for a week. Will look into the ignitor though and also yet the timing tonight

hey guys checked the timing and got it back to position. Tool it for a drive jut to see if I had a bit of shot fuel in the bores when I took off it started blowing blue smoke and won't get positive pressure tested it when I got home and my rear turbo isn't sucking. Gonna start ripping it off now and will report on the state of it

Soo so far its been a mixture of issues,

Fried ecu , timing incorrect( was it cas timing or cam timing?)

A blown rear turbo? Which unfortunately will more then likely mean ceramic dust has entered the cylinders. But hopefully not.

Have u got the turbos off yet?

What turbos are u going to refit?

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok i have now replaced the turbo which was buggered found the rear wheel (or what was left of it) in the cat. Now will not start with out a few pumps of the pedal and sounds like a Subaru I drove it for a bit and got it warm still the same story.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha! well, there's your problem!  Guess the last person in there didn't have great attention to detail....
    • It seems like you guys want to behave like rabid dogs, rather than gentlemen... Knowing one has jumped in on a fellow comrades near done deal, and sniped it at the last second, how can one sleep at night?
    • My wifes says we have a spare set.
    • Good news!!! Changed the O ring today and I’ve got the “pssshhhh” back when I open the fuel cap 😂🙌🏼🙌🏼 It was 100% the O ring because that bloody thing was inside the fuel tank 😂😂😂😂😂 Fitting new fuel pump was a pain as always since the DW is a bit longer than stock. But she’s running!!! ❤️
    • PWM quite literally just chops the ful 12V voltage on and off at whatever duty cycle you're running it at. If you're running it 100%, then it is on full voltage all the time, same as if there was no PWM. If you run it at 50% duty cycle, it is only seeing the full 12V half of the time. This is broadly equivalent to running it at 6V. But the crucial difference is that motors (and a lot of other loads) don't like being powered at low volts. They will either fail to start rotating, or draw a shit ton of current, or other undesirable things. But if you give them the full volt, and then a short period of no volts, and then some more full volts, then the times when they are seeing power they are seeing all the voltage, and they are happy. But you get the performance out of them as if they were only seeing that fraction of the full voltage. It is not really easy to answer your question about what flow you will get out of it at 50% duty cycle. I can tell you that it is not as simple as you think. For a start, that 460 L/h pump is not going to flow 460 when you're on boost. When you're on boost you will be somewhere down the sloping part of that red line. If you have 15 psi of boost, then the pump can only deliver about 95 gal/h, which is <380L/h. So your simple 50% on 460 = 230 wasn't going to work anyway. But also, it won't deliver 50% of 380 either, because when you devolt or PWM trim th epower being fed to the pump, it is not able to deliver flow or pressure in the same way. 50% duty cycle will probably produce <50% of the full voltage flow. The way to find out what duty cycle you need to run it at at low load (ie, at idle) is to idle it and turn the DC down until you start to lose fuel pressure, then turn it back up above that with some extra for safety. And then you do the same thing at full load, in case it doesn't need anywhere near 100% DC. And if you're careful/caution/prudent, you will also do it at a couple of loads in between so you can shape the DC map against load. It might not be linear between the two end points.
×
×
  • Create New...