Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just fitted the Willall cat-back Titanium exhaust system in conjunction with the Cobb Accessport flash using the Willall map for 98+ RON fuel. Initially, I considered the Akrapovic system but the value, the "home-grown" support and the performance offered by Willall swayed me in their direction. After a minor glitch with a scratched Cobb screen I got to drive the end result yesterday after having my Nissan dealer fit the exhaust. I've owned tuned EVO's and Porsches, ridden Superbikes for years and driven open-wheelers at track days. None have managed to combine the noise, handling and shocking acceleration of the GTR with ca. 630+ bhp. I bought the Cobb Accessport with TCM but haven't given it the 3,300 rpm launch so wait out for more feedback.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355169-r35-performance-tuning-willall/
Share on other sites

I've just fitted the Willall cat-back Titanium exhaust system in conjunction with the Cobb Accessport flash using the Willall map for 98+ RON fuel. Initially, I considered the Akrapovic system but the value, the "home-grown" support and the performance offered by Willall swayed me in their direction. After a minor glitch with a scratched Cobb screen I got to drive the end result yesterday after having my Nissan dealer fit the exhaust. I've owned tuned EVO's and Porsches, ridden Superbikes for years and driven open-wheelers at track days. None have managed to combine the noise, handling and shocking acceleration of the GTR with ca. 630+ bhp. I bought the Cobb Accessport with TCM but haven't given it the 3,300 rpm launch so wait out for more feedback.

What Willall tune did you get? The Stage III 98 RON one?

  • 1 month later...

I think these cars all vary a bit but I had Cobb with Willall custom tune

and just a midpipe ages ago and gained almost 25% power at the wheels.

Its hard to work out flywheel horsepower exactly but this claim does sound

quite realistic.

I have not had a chance to go in Keirs R35 since he put the new "built"

engine and turbos on it, but with over 500 awkw that makes it approx

80% increase over std power!

Totally amazing cars. And they can hook up the power which makes them all the

more impressive.

I am sure they are plenty of commodores and falcons cruising around with

500kw at the wheels these days, but whats the point if you can't put it down?

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

And the result is............. the 2011 model made 313 rwkw standard and jumped to 361rwkw

with the Willall midpipe and COBB tune. Thats a 15% increase!

Car feels amazing to drive now, much more mid range torque, and the power feels more linear.

Haven't had time to get up in the hills yet, but from what i have experienced so far - Amazing difference.

  • 7 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Hi Guys, I'm sure this has been covered but I could not find - what stock power is an MY09/10 R35 GTR at the wheels, before and after Mid-pipe and Stage 1 COBB tune (98RON)???

Roughly...

Cheers,

Ed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
    • I’ll have more of a look into Recaros over the weekend. It’s taken me 2 days to figure out which Bride seats suit my application haha.
    • I am aware of their presence, but the product page looked like that conversion will eliminate the AWD capability. Fact remains it's kind of a hassle to send my oil sump halfway around the world and buying an extra one is expensive and unnecessary. Before I go hat route I'd explore more local options.    Would you recommend I just pull the engine and renew as many things as possible since I'm already having problems with some leaks? Would have to get an engine crane first though.
    • Are there any indicators that the vehicle is in limp mode?  Any dash light, or something.  Or is it just lack of acceleration?
×
×
  • Create New...